This guide covers all the information you need to know about visiting the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy, including how much it costs, how to get there from Almaty, where to stay, and what to do.
Kazakhstan is often described as a land of deserts, vast steppes, yurts, and camels. The country also gets associated with the old caravan routes of the Silk Road, along which were often little but dried-up steppes to keep the travelers entertained during their long journeys.
The overload of nothingness was exhausting while I was driving with my friends from West to East across Kazakhstan for more than 10 days in a row. I can only imagine how fried-up the brains of those travelers must have been as they had to cross the same distance on a camel or horse.
The Southeast region of Kazakhstan was a striking contrast to what we experienced on our road trip.
The natural diversity of this region is amazing – from arid deserts and scenic canyons to lush valleys, snow-peaked mountains and turquoise lakes. This territory is called Zhetisu, which means in Kazakh “Seven Rivers”.
A large number of rivers are flowing down the slopes of the Northern Tien Shan and Dzungar Alatau Mountains, forming stunning lakes along their way.
We visited a few of these lakes in the Kolsai National Park and the nearby sunken forest of Lake Kaindy.
These lakes are part of the “Golden Triangle”, a trio of major natural attractions in Southeast Kazakhstan, which also include the Charyn Canyon and the Altyn-Emel National Park.
In this guide, I focus on the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy, but I would also recommend reading my guide to Charyn Canyon as it is worth a visit on your way from or back to Almaty!
Tip: See my Kazakhstan Travel Page for a complete overview of all my travel guides and blog posts about Kazakhstan!
From surreal desert landscapes to high mountain lakes and life in a yurt camp, this 10-day Best of Kazakhstan Kyrgyzstan journey takes you straight into the heart of Central Asia!
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An introduction to the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
Why visit Kolsai Lakes National Park
The Kolsai Lakes National Park houses a system of three lakes, nestled among the hills of the Northern Tien Shan Mountains, approximately 300km east of Almaty.
They are also called “The Pearl of the Northern Tien Shan” and after visiting the lakes, you’ll totally get why! The 3 lakes are so clear that, when the sun is out, the surrounding forests, hills, and snowy mountain peaks are mirrored in the water.
The two lower lakes, Kolsai 1 and Kolsai 2 (easy to remember) are surrounded by spruce trees, alpine meadows and mountain pastures.
Kolsai 1 is at an altitude of 1000m while the second lake, being much higher into the mountains, is at an altitude of 2500m. Grassy slopes replace the spruce forests on the hills surrounding the third lake, which is at an altitude of 2700m.
Kaindy, The underwater forest Lake
Lake Kaindy is at an altitude of 2000m and geologically very young. This 400m long lake was formed in 1911 after an earthquake triggered an enormous limestone landslide, which formed a natural dam in the gorge that was covered by spruce trees.
Water started flooding the basin and submerging the forest. The dried-out trunks of the trees rise above the surface of the water, looking like the masts of sunken ships.
The lake is almost 30 m deep and if you look underwater, which is very easy because the water of the lake is very clear, you can still see the needles on the submerged trunks.
Due to the cold temperatures, the trees were naturally frozen and well preserved in the water. You could go diving in this lake to see its unique beauty, but brace yourself for the cold! The temperature of the lake is a maximum of 6ºC in summer!
Strangely enough, this uncommonly beautiful lake is still quite unknown. The Kolsai Lakes, which are about 36km from Lake Kaindy, are far more popular.
This is probably due to the fact that it’s pretty difficult to get to Kaindy lake if you don’t have a 4×4 at your disposal. But do not despair, I will tell you exactly how you can get there!
Don’t miss out on the Charyn Canyon on your way to or from the lakes!
How to visit the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy – Travel Tips
1. How to get to Kaindy lake and the kolsai lakes from Almaty
It takes about 6 hours to reach the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy from Almaty.
1.1 How to get to the Kolsai Lakes from Almaty by public transport
Getting to the Kolsai National Park by public transport is probably not your best option.
There should be a bus going from Sayakhat bus station (Almaty) to Saty, the closest village to the lakes but nobody, not even the locals, seem to know when this bus leaves.
If you’re lucky enough to catch this bus (if you do, please let me know in the comments below), you have to get off in the village of Saty.
From there, it’s a 15km walk before you reach the entrance gate. You could always try to hitchhike that part of the way as there should be a few cars passing by.
Getting back on the same bus will be very hard if you were able to take this bus to get there in the first place!
Your best option to get from Almaty to Lake Kaindy and the Kolsai Lakes would be by shared taxi. Go to Sayakhat bus station and search for the shared taxis that go to Kegen, the name of a village near Saty (the drivers will shout it).
Ask the driver to drop you off at the intersection with Saty (say “stop Saty povorot”). The costs of a shared taxi from Almaty to the intersection with Saty should cost $10 per person.
From the intersection, it’s another hour or two to Saty and the entrance of the National Park.
You can try to hitchhike the distance but know that some drivers will ask you for money. You shouldn’t pay more than 3000 tenge so make sure to be clear on the price from the start (so they don’t double or triple the price upon arrival.
Once you arrive in Saty, you can ask your driver to drop you off at the entrance of the park (which will cost you another 1000 tenge) or you can hope to catch a free ride by hitchhiking.
Getting back from the Kolsai Lakes to Almaty shouldn’t be too hard. You can hitchhike back from Saty (or pay the driver) to Zhalanash or to the intersection with the main road.
Maybe you’re lucky and you’ll get a ride straight to Kokpek or Almaty. In any case, keep the following prices in mind:
- From Saty to the intersection: 3000 tenge.
- From the intersection to Kokpek: 1000 tenge.
- You’ll definitely find a bus or shared taxi from Kokpek to Almaty for 4000 tenge.
Note: The costs seem to go up every year. If you have updated info on the price, please let me know in the comments below!
1.2 renting a car in Almaty
A more expensive option is to rent a car.
If you’re willing to pay the price, you’ll get a lot more time and freedom to explore and drive around the canyon. Try to rent a 4×4 car as the road towards the Kolsai lakes is pretty bumpy and the road doesn’t go further than the first Kolsai lake.
Friends of mine were able to rent a car for $90 USD through a local office in Almaty but you might find a cheaper deal online.
You can also ask fellow travelers in your guesthouse/ hostel if they are up for joining you on this trip and share the costs.
1.3 Hitchhiking to the Kolsai Lakes
If you have the time, you can definitely get to the Kolsai Lakes by hitchhiking. It won’t cost you much and the trip towards the lakes will probably be an adventure on its own.
Take a mashrutka or shared taxi to get out of the city center and once you reach the highway (A-351), you can start hitchhiking towards Kegen. Don’t miss the turn to Zhalanash/Saty.
Make it clear from the start that you’re not paying for the ride, otherwise you might get some problems. Please read my tips on hitchhiking in Kazakhstan.
1.4 How to get to Lake Kaindy from Almaty
As Lake Kaindy is only 36 kilometers away from the first Kolsai lake, the information above is pretty much the same.
Instead of going all the way to Saty, you will have to turn left one kilometer before the village (see map below). The intersection is near a cemetery and you’ll also see a sign pointing you in the direction of Kaindy Lake.
The road towards the lake is very rough and is often partly flooded so you’ll need a 4×4 to get there. You can hike or try to catch a ride at the turn before Saty as there will be some cars passing by.
You might have to pay 2000 tenge for the ride or maybe you’ll meet a friendly driver who will bring you there for free.
1.5 Tours to Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
The easiest way to get to the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy would be by booking a tour.
You can check at the offices of local tour companies in Almaty or you can also browse for tours online. Most tours offer a combination of visiting the lakes with Charyn Canyon and even Altyn Emel National Park, which I’d highly recommend!
You can also join my 10-day Best of Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan Adventure Tour as you’ll visit the Kolsai Lakes, Lake Kaindy, Charyn Canyon and many more!
From surreal desert landscapes to high mountain lakes and life in a yurt camp, this 10-day Best of Kazakhstan Kyrgyzstan journey takes you straight into the heart of Central Asia!
I also recommend the following guided tours, organized by local travel companies in Almaty:
Need help planning your trip to Kazakhstan? See my Central Asia Tour and Itinerary Planning Services!
2. How much does it cost to visit the Kolsai Lakes National Park
You’ll have to pay an entrance fee to visit the Kolsai Lakes and an entrance fee to visit Lake Kaindy, as they work independently.
Before reaching either lake, you will come across an entrance gate. The officer in the little kiosk will ask for your passport, and documents (if you’re driving) and will want to know if you’ll be camping there for the night.
The entrance fee without camping is 806 tenge per person and 100 tenge per car and, if you want to spend the night in your tent, you’ll have to pay another 350 tenge per tent (the prices tend to change, depending on the season). Keep the receipt with you as you’ll have to show it upon exiting.
When we arrived at Kaindy Lake, it was already late in the evening. We noticed that the park guard was drunk. His breath reeked of alcohol and he was having a hard time keeping our money in his hands as he was trying to count it.
He never gave us a receipt and the day after, when we wanted to leave the park, another guard stopped us and asked for it. We tried to explain in the little Russian that we know, that the previous guard hadn’t given us any proof of payment.
When we said that his colleague had been drunk the night before and probably put the money in his pocket, the guard eventually let us leave. Moral of the story: always ask for a receipt so you don’t have to pay twice!
3. Hiking in Kolsai National Park
3.1 Hiking to the Kolsai Lakes
The first Kolsai lake is accessible by car and you can walk around it in just a couple of hours.
If you have more time and you’re up for a good hike, I would definitely suggest hiking up to the second lake and maybe even the third lake. The three lakes are connected by a well-maintained hiking trail, which takes you along meadows, dense forests and steep slopes.
It’s an 8 km walk from the first lake to the second one, which takes about 2 to 3 hours of hiking. Be aware that some parts of the trail are very steep.
Once you reach the second lake and you still have some energy left (I didn’t), you can continue the trail on the left side of Kolsai 2 to the third lake, which is another 5km.
The third lake is only 6km away from the Sary-Bulak Pass (3278m) on the Kyrgyz border. I heard that you can hike up until there and get treated to some superb views over the blue Issyk-Kul lake in Kyrgyzstan.
You can hike to the second lake and back in one day, but it takes at least two days to do the whole trek to the third lake and back.
Most of the trail is very clear to follow with a few signposts and blue arrows here and there. When in doubt, look for horse tracks (and horse poo) to find the right direction (that’s how I did it).
If hiking isn’t your thing, you can always hire a horse near the first lake for a day to take you up from Kolsai 1 to Kolsai 3. Please be accompanied by a guide, who can help you with getting the animals over any tricky and steep parts of the trail.
If you want to cool down after a long hike, you’re allowed to swim in the lakes.
Important Note: The start of the trail begins on the right side of Kolsai 1. You’ll see armed guards at the entrance and they will ask you to leave your passport with them.
The path leads to the Kyrgyz border and it’s their duty to prevent anyone from crossing this border illegally. Once you’re back at Kolsai 1, they will hand you back your passport. Some of the guards speak some English and they are really nice guys!
3.2 Hiking at Lake Kaindy
Once you arrive at the car park of Lake Kaindy, you won’t have to walk far to see the sunken forest.
It’s about 10 minutes hiking from the car park to the lake but keep in mind that the trail is pretty steep. The lake is only 300 meters long so you can walk along its shore.
If you’re up for a multiple-day hike, you can connect Kaindy Lake with the 3 Kolsai Lakes. Take a topographic map so you won’t get lost!
4. Where to stay at the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
4.1 Homestays and guesthouses near Kolsai Lakes National Park
There are two accommodation options near the Kolsai lakes. You can stay at the yurt camp near the first lake for 7000 tenge per person (breakfast included) or at one of the few homestays and guesthouses in Saty, the closest village near the lakes.
There are a few homestays in Saty where you can show up and ask for availability or you can book a room online to stay at one of the following guesthouses in Saty:
There are no restaurants or convenience stores near Kolsai 1, so make sure to bring enough food. Some homestays will offer lunch and dinner for 1000 tenge per meal.
Important note: The yurt camps and most homestays are closed from October to May.
There are no lodging options at the other two Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy, with the exception of camping.
4.2 Camping at the Kolsai Lakes
If you want to camp at any of the three lakes, you’ll have to pay an extra fee when you enter the park. The prices can change but we had to pay about 350 tenge per tent per night. Keep the receipt with you in case any ranger inquires for it on the campground.
During the summer, at the peak of the tourist season, rangers will show you to a designated camping area as you won’t be the only person camping there. If you prefer to be by yourself, you can always hike to the forest and find a camping spot there.
During the low season (from October to May) you’ll probably be alone as not many people are up for sleeping outdoors in the cold.
Be aware that you’re higher up in the mountains so the nights can be cold, especially if you decide to pitch your tent at Kolsai 2 or Kolsai 3.
We camped at Kolsai 1 in mid-October and the temperature at night dropped below freezing point.
You’re allowed to make a campfire around the lakes but it’s prohibited in the forest. Read my guide on how to prepare for camping in winter if you intend to do the same.
4.3 Camping at Kaindy Lake
You can camp anywhere you want near Kaindy Lake. There is a space near the car park with a few outdoor toilets and picnic benches but you can also pitch your tent along the lake’s shore.
Just as with the Kolsai Lakes, prepare yourself for cold nights as you’re at an altitude of 2000m. Unfortunately, it’s prohibited to make a campfire anywhere near the lake.
5. When is the Best time to visit Kolsai Lakes and Kaindy Lake
The lakes are becoming more popular every year and you’ll find many fellow nature lovers there during summer, between the months of June and September.
Summer is also the best time to camp comfortably but you might have to share the space with others. It’s also the easiest time of the year to hitchhike or take a shared taxi to the lakes as there will be a lot more traffic.
If you want to enjoy the tranquility of the lakes but not freeze your ass off, it’s better to visit the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kainday in late May or late September.
It’ll be still warm enough to spend a lot of time outdoors and the yurts and guesthouses around Kolsai will still be open (they close from October on and open again in May).
There’s going to be a lot less traffic than during the summer but you should still be able to find a ride (paid or free) to the lakes.
There will probably be some snow along the hiking trails and the lakes might be frozen at that time of the year so I wouldn’t recommend camping there unless you’re well-equipped.
Winter (December – March) isn’t the best time to visit the lakes. Winter here is pretty rough and the roads and hiking trails are sometimes closed, due to heavy snowfall. It will also be very hard to find a homestay that is open.
My friends and I visited Kaindy and Kolsai in mid-October and although the weather was nice and sunny during the day, the nights were very cold (below freezing point). We also saw some snow on our way to the second Kolsai Lake.
If you don’t mind camping in these temperatures and you’re well-equipped, it is quite special to be here by yourself!
6. What to Pack to visit Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
- Bring enough food and water with you for the amount of time you’re going to spend near the lakes since there are only a few convenience stores in the nearby village of Saty.
- Bring a water filter as you can get your water from the rivers and lakes (saves you the extra weight of carrying all those bottles of water).
- Wear proper hiking boots and bring a raincoat in case of sudden showers.
- If you’re planning to spend the night near the lakes, be aware that it can be pretty chilly. Bring a warm sleeping bag and enough clothes to keep you warm at night. You can find more tips about camping in winter here.
- Bring eco-friendly toilet paper and wet wipes as some guesthouses don’t have showers.
- Pack a first-aid kit and make sure to have good travel insurance.
I hope this guide provided you with all the information you need to have a great time in this stunning area. If you have more questions, let me know in the comments below. Feel free to post tips, photos or stories of your own visit to the lakes.
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I think the Sayakhat Bus Terminal is permanently closed now (As per Google maps).
Thank you for this info Infanta, I’ll ask my local contacts for updates
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for all the info!
My GF an I want to hike from Kaindy lake to the Kolsai lakes but can’t find a trail. Is it possible to just cross over the ridges in between? How should we go about it?
There’s no clear hiking trail but you can check out this mountain bike trail on Wikiloc . You have to foresee a day or 2 for this hike. Hope this helps!
Hi Cynthia, my partner and I have just returned from a trip to Kolsai & Kaindi and wanted to provide an alternative options for travellers who would like to visit the Kolsai region independently for a night or more, but don’t want to take the convoluted public transport option. We used JoinMe for our journeys. They are a tourist company that offers tour packages to visit both lakes, however, they will also offer the transportation from Almaty – Kolsai (and vice versa) at 7,000 tenge per person, each way. It’s good value, they speak English and communicate promptly via whatsapp. We were dropped off at Kolsai and then three days later picked up from Kolsai for our return journey to Almaty (we even got 15 minutes to enjoy a panoramic view of Black Canyon, part of Cheryn). To visit Kaindy, we hitchiked as you suggested. To contact JoinMe, use instagram or whatsapp this number (+7 777 299 9767) Hope this helps!
Hello Ravi, thanks so much for this useful info!
Some articles say that lake 3 is forbidden because of its proximity to the border. Does anyone have any updated information on this?
Also, does anyone know the route to hike from kol-sai 2 to kaindy, as the blog suggests is possible?
Hi! This is Clari from Italy and next month I’ll go to Almaty until July. I read that you can sleep in a yurta by Kolsai Lakes, but Ican’t find a website where I can book from. Do you have any information? That would be very helpful. Thanks so much!
Hi Clari, that yurt camp isn’t bookable online. You’ll have to see on the spot if they have availability. just remember that it’s a very touristic yurt…
I am planning to make a travel to Kazakh and Kyrgyz region and stumbled across with your vlog. Thank you for detailed explanation.
I am planning to travel alone and rent an offroad car around next June. Is it safe to travel alone as a male traveller? Also wondering if there was a language barrier with locals? Will it be a good idea to learn basic phrases?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi Umutcan, yes, it is safe to travel alone in Kazakhstan. All people in Kazakhstan speak Russian so it good be helpful to learn some basic Russian phrases. Here’s a useful guide for it. Best wishes, Cynthia
Very well laid out information! I am visiting next week and this will certainly be helpful
Enjoy your trip Malik!
Hi, I’m planning to go to the lakes and canyon in 2 weeks. Do you know if you have to book the yurts by the lake in advance? And if so is there a website for them? Thanks so much!
Hi Hannah, I don’t have any online info for the yurts by the lake. You can always ask a tour provider in Almaty about them.
Hello! My boyfriend and I are planning to visit Kazakhstan the first two weeks of April. Do you know if it’s possible to do a day hikes (perhaps to lake 2 and maybe 3) during this time? I’d love to do an overnight, but it seems like the yurts and home stays won’t be open. Thanks – your information is great!
Hi! It’s hard to say as it will depend on the weather and snowfall. Hiking to lake 2 might already be possible and you’ll be able to visit Kaindy lake too but I don’t think lake 3 will be accessible yet in early April. Some homestays might already be open too, depending if there are already other tourists.
And thank you 🙂
As always the guides are very detailed and well done ! We ended up staying at guesthouse Aisha and we have been very welcome and the rooms and food were great ! The entrance fee is now the same as Charyn: 806 per person 7 years old and up and 200 for the car. We started with Kolsai, and when we arrived to Kandy they told us the entrance fee covers both lakes, so that’s a good deal ! But don’t forget to keep the proof of payment they give you at the gate. At Kolsai, there was also boat for rent for half and hour or more. 5000 tenge for 30 minutes, the kids really liked it. Even though Kandy is complicated to get to, it’s REALLY worth your while ! After more than a month on Central Asia the whole family agrees it’s one of the most beautiful place we have been to.
Hi Jacquelin, thank you for all the updates! I’m very happy to hear you had such a great trip and that you love Central Asia as well 😀
Hi there Jacquelin – I assume you travelled to the area using a hire car – is that correct? If so what did you hire, from where – and can you remember how much it cost? Gareth
thank you so much for provided feedback. it was very useful considering that I plan to go there next week….
Great to hear Rati! Wishing you a great time at the Kolsai Lakes, it’s absolutely beautiful there!!
guys! How lucky I was to find your blog! so many amazing tips! we are now at Almaty planning our adventure in the east (canyons and the lakes) . Just thank you!
Question: we dont want to rent a car so the entire trip will be by bus /hitchhike. Did you see any of this type on the way?
Hi Tais, sorry for the late reply (we were out and about in the mountains). I hope it’s not too late but you might have found your way to the canyon and lakes by now.
There aren’t any buses going that way but you can take a shared taxi and/or hitchhike!
Amazing pictures and great tips! I am curious, did you manage to visit Altyn Emel National Park as well? If so what did you think of it? I am visiting Almaty in a couple of months and am definitely interested in visiting Kolsai, Kaindy and Charyn Canyon National Park. I would need an additional 2 days to visit Altyn Emel and I am wondering if it is worth it.
Hi Timothy, we haven’t visited Altyn Emel yet but friends of ours did and it’s apparently also very beautiful there. There’s a place in the park called Singing Dunes, which is quite special. If you have 2 extra days on your itinerary, I’d visit it 🙂
I think that the photos talks better that anything else. The crystalline water in contrast with the whitewashed mountains are have an immediate impact on me because is so similar of a lake here in my land in the northeast of Italy. How cool is to travel and find places that seems like your hometown. I love trekking and hope one day to have the chance to visit this amazing land. kisses Ale
We visited the northeast of Italy and saw some gorgeous lakes there also.We’re glad this reminded you of your hometown. Hopefully you have the chance to visit this part of the world one day, we know you will love it!
There’s a lot of beauty also to a deserted scenario, with nothing but plain flat land till the distance your eyes can see. The capture of the Kazakhstan plains with horses taking a run is brilliant and amazingly beautiful. It’s all so adventurous when you can trek, camp and enjoy the beauty of nature.
Thank you for sharing all the details and lovely pictures of the lakes. Now I know how to get there and will soon some day try to be there. Adding this place to my list of must visit 🙂
You are totally right! There is a lot of beauty in deserted and arid places. We both enjoy so much walking in the emptiest deserts. That is the beauty of Kazakhstan, we have access to those remote arid places and at the same time we can see beautiful cities, lakes and forests.
That lake is absolutely stunning, it looks like those lakes in Canada. I would never have thought that it was in Kazakhstan! Thanks for sharing such detailed explanations about how to get there. It’s always something that I appreciate. Hope I can make it there one day!
If you have the chance to visit this part of Kazakhstan, you will be happily surprised. The lakes here do remind us a bit of the ones in Canada.
The Kolsai and Kandy lakes look so ethereal, straight out of the realms of the imagination of a poet or painter. Definitely the stuff that dreams are made of. The landscapes of Kazakhstan are really stunning. Your pictures have captured the beautiful landscapes in stunning style
The landscapes here are indeed stunning! The best part is that in Kazakhstan it’s possible to find absolutely everything; lakes, forests, canyons and deserts.Definitely a place for artists, poets and painters 😀
This is unbelievable! I never quite imagined Kazakhstan had lakes, and that too such stunning ones…mind-blown! Thanks for sharing the details of hiking and camping at the lakes too, rather interesting that you only need to do a short hike of ten minutes to reach the sunken forests…
We were so surprised as well! 🙂 Before coming here, we had no idea that Kazakhstan had so many varied and different landscapes.
Thank you for the very helpful info. Your estimate of 2 hours to walk around Kolsay Lake 1 is about right but it’s worth mentioning that the well-defined path on the East side of the lake is pretty exposed and slippery in places so you need a good head for heights and, ideally, trekking poles. Plus you’ll need to ignore a sign at the North end prohibiting entry. You also need to wade the river at the South end. The main path goes along the West side and is straightforward.