This is the complete travel guide to Khiva Uzbekistan: what to see in Khiva and what are the top things to do in Khiva, one of the most special Silk Road cities in Uzbekistan? This comprehensive Khiva city guide also includes information on where to stay and the best restaurants in Khiva.
I have spent a few years discovering countries that were once crossed by the fabled Silk Road. While countries such as Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan did conserve traces of this big trade route, it’s in Uzbekistan where I felt like I was traveling back in time the most.
Uzbekistan was able to conserve the rich architecture and stunning palaces that were present during the Silk Road period. Even through periods of war and turmoil, these beautiful buildings were never erased from this country in Central Asia.
While on my journeys around Central Asia, people kept telling me that I absolutely had to visit Khiva in Uzbekistan. They described the city of Khiva as a mystical place.
I had seen pictures and just couldn’t wait to witness the stunning tile work and shinny turquoise minarets the city was famous for.
Well, let me tell you it didn’t disappoint! Khiva was everything that I was expecting and more. The city surprised and charmed me. From carpet weaving workshops and stunning minarets overlooking the ancient town to old mosques and gorgeous tile-covered towers, everything I saw was beautiful!
It’s true that Khiva’s name was once synonym with slave caravans and terrible cruelty. It used to be a slave-trading post located between huge arid deserts.
However, today nothing remains of that brutal past. Khiva is now a touristic town that waits for buses of tourists instead of slave caravans. It’s even a bit difficult to imagine the city could have had such a barbaric past.
If you visit Uzbekistan, Khiva is a city that you shouldn’t miss. It has many architectural vestiges of the past and so much history.
In this travel guide to Khiva Uzbekistan, I will tell you what are the most beautiful sights to visit in Khiva and the top things to do, how much visiting each place will cost, where to stay and eat in Khiva and the best trips from Khiva.
Tip: See my Uzbekistan Travel Page for a complete overview of all my travel guides and blog posts about Uzbekistan!
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Plan your trip to Khiva
Where to stay in Khiva:
- Khiva Siyovush Hotel → Fantastic mid-range hotel in the old city center
- Turon Khiva → Trendy 3* hotel in the old city center for those craving some luxury
- Safo Guest House → Ideal for solo travelers and backpackers
Top experiences in Khiva:
- Khiva Highlights City Tour → Explore Khiva’s ancient old town with a local guide and uncover the stories behind its mosques, minarets and hidden corners.
- Day trip to the Khorezm Fortresses → Explore the ancient Khorezm fortresses and step into Uzbekistan’s desert past.
- Day trip to the Aral Sea Cemetry → Discover the quiet, haunting beauty of the Aral Sea cemetery and its history.
- Multi-day tour to the Aral Sea → Journey to the Aral Sea, sleep in a yurt, and experience one of Uzbekistan’s most remote landscapes.
Uzbekistan Travel Tips
- 🧭Plan your trip → Uzbekistan Itineraries
- 🚆 Getting around → Travel Uzbekistan by train
- 🚖 Need transfer → Install Yandex.go or find transfers here
- 📱 Stay connected → Get an e-SIM
- 🛡️ Be prepared → Travel insurance for Uzbekistan
How to get to Khiva?
1. Flying to Khiva
Flying is the fastest way to reach Khiva, but there’s one important thing to know: you don’t actually fly to Khiva itself.
You fly to Urgench, the nearest airport, located about 30-40 minutes from Khiva. You can then take either a taxi for 150.000 som (download Yandex.go!) or book a private transfer to Khiva.
Here are your main options:
Option 1: Domestic flights from Tashkent or Bukhara
Several daily flights connect Tashkent with Urgench, and the journey takes only about 1.5 hours, which is a huge time-saver compared to the long train ride across the country (see below).
Prices are usually quite reasonable if you book in advance, making this the best overall option if you’re short on time.
There are also occasional flights from Bukhara to Urgench, but these tend to be less frequent and often seasonal, usually running between spring and autumn.
While the flight itself is short (under an hour), schedules don’t always line up well, and prices can be surprisingly high. In most cases, the train or a private transfer from Bukhara is the more practical choice (see below).
→ You can check flights and book tickets on Uzbekistan Airways for domestic flights.
Option 2: International flights to and from Urgench
Urgench also has a small but growing number of international connections, which can be very useful if you want to skip Tashkent altogether. Direct flights are typically available (depending on the season) to destinations like Istanbul, Moscow, and occasionally other cities in Russia or Central Asia. You can check flight schedules here.
For most international travelers, this means you can either:
- Fly directly into Urgench via a hub like Istanbul
- Or fly into Tashkent and connect domestically
In reality, flight availability to Urgench can change throughout the year, and routes are often seasonal or limited in frequency, so it’s always worth checking options in advance. Flying via Istanbul is usually the most reliable international route, especially from Europe.
What I’d personally recommend
If you’re coming from abroad, I’d check flights to both Tashkent and Urgench. Sometimes a direct flight into Urgench saves you a lot of time, but often you’ll find better deals and more flexibility flying into Tashkent and then taking a short domestic flight.
Either way, flying is by far the fastest way to reach Khiva, especially if you want to avoid long travel days and arrive feeling fresh and ready to explore the old Silk Road city.
2. How to get to Khiva from Tashkent by train
Traveling by train from Tashkent to Khiva is one of the easiest and most comfortable ways to cross Uzbekistan. The journey takes around 13-15 hours, usually on an overnight train, making it a great way to save both time and a night of accommodation.
Update: Starting from May 1st, 2026, there are now high-speed trains between Tashkent and Khiva, making the journey around 7 hours!
Tickets typically go on sale about 45 days in advance, and you can book them the official Uzbekistan Railway website. You’ll find an overview of the train schedules from Tashkent to Khiva. Consult my Uzbekistan Railways Guide to learn how to book the train tickets.
3. How to get to Khiva from Bukhara by train
Traveling by train from Bukhara to Khiva is a straightforward and comfortable journey across the desert landscapes of western Uzbekistan. The trip takes around 6-8 hours, usually on a day or overnight train, depending on the schedule.
You can book the train tickets 45 days in advance on the official Uzbekistan Railway website. You’ll also find an overview of the train schedules from Bukhara to Khiva. Consult my Uzbekistan Railways Guide to learn how to book the train tickets.
4. How to get to Khiva from Bukhara by bus
If train tickets between Bukhara and Khiva are sold out, you can travel by bus from Bukhara to Khiva (or vice versa). You can buy bus tickets here.
However, this is not the most comfortable option. The journey takes around 7-9 hours across long, flat desert roads, often in older vehicles with limited legroom, no air conditioning, and frequent stops. Schedules can also be a bit unpredictable.
Because of this, I usually recommend opting for a private transfer instead. It’s more expensive, but you’ll have a much smoother, faster, and more flexible journey, with the added comfort of air conditioning and extra stops along the way to visit some places of interest, making a long travel day far more enjoyable.
Step into the heart of the Silk Road and experience Uzbekistan beyond the guidebooks: from the blue domes of Samarkand to remote desert landscapes and hidden mountain trails.
Join the 14-day Highlights of Uzbekistan Adventure Tour and experience the country in a deeper, more meaningful way!
Things you need to know before going to Khiva Uzbekistan
Itchan Khala
Khiva is a city in Uzbekistan that has been rebuilt and renovated throughout the years.
For some people, it doesn’t feel quite as authentic as other places such as Bukhara for example. It’s very touristy and a bit similar to Samarkand.
Khiva is nowadays designed for tourism and you even need to buy a ticket to visit the old city, called Itchan Khala – Itchan Qala, if you walk in through the official gates.
You can also enter the old city for free through the caravanserai where there are many souvenir shops. There are also a few free entrances scattered around the old town.
However, if you’re staying at one of the hotels and guesthouses in Itchan Qala, you don’t need to buy an entrance ticket to enter or re-enter the old city. You only need one to visit the attractions, see below.
Itchan Khala is essentially an open-air museum. There are over 50 historical sites and monuments, more than 350 houses inside the old city center, and around 2,500 people still live here.
Khiva entrance tickets and opening hours
As people still live in Khiva, the gates never close so this “open-air museum” and its gates are always open. The main attractions, however, have opening hours, depending on the season:
- Summer (April – October): from 8am until sunset (7pm – 8pm)
- Winter (November – March): from 9am until sunset (5pm – 6pm)
There used to be 3 different types of entrance tickets for Khiva but as of 2023, there’s only one ticket that allows you visit all the main attractions: all historical sites, museums, the city walls and the watchtower. Only entrance for the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum (which you can buy separately for 25.000 som at the entrance of the mausoleum itself) and climbing the Islam Khoha Minaret (which you can buy seperately for 30.000 som at the minaret itself) aren’t included.
The entrance ticket costs 100.000 som and is valid for one full day. You can buy it at the ticket office (they accept cash or credit cards) just outside West Gate of Khiva.
How many days in Khiva?
Khiva is very small so all Khiva’s points of interest can be visited in one day.
I highly recommend going on a guided walking tour in Khiva to visit all its highlights while you learn more about the city’s history and importance. These walking tours usually take 3 to 4 hours, which leaves you plenty of time to visit Khiva at your own pace.
What to wear in Khiva?
During my last visit, I saw many (female) tourists wearing revealing (Instagrammy) sun dresses. I understand that, when it’s hot, you don’t want to be fully covered up and showing some skin might get you more likes on Instagram but you should keep in mind that short dresses and revealing tops aren’t the dress code in Uzbekistan…
Be respectful and wear modest clothes. As a woman, I usually wear a light T-shirt and a long skirt or dress. Shorts are also ok but not the type in which you can see half of your buttocks…
Same goes for men. Shorts and T-shirts are perfectly fine but don’t wear tank tops – and don’t even think about walking around bare-chested…
When entering religious building, women have to cover their shoulders and knees. Always keep a scarf with you!
When is the best time to visit Khiva?
If you visit Khiva during high season (September – October), you will be swimming in a sea of tourists and cameras. That’s not to say that you can’t find moments when the old city is a bit calmer.
During my last visit in September 2022, I got up in the early morning and barely saw anyone. Most tourists avoid the heat in the afternoon, so if you can bare temperatures of 35°C, you’ll also have the streets to yourself in the afternoon.
So when is the best time to visit Khiva? if you want to have the best weather in Khiva while avoiding the swarms of tourists, it’s best to visit the city in April.
Summer (June – August) and winter (November – February) are also good months, if you don’t mind the heat (around 40C°) or the cold (around -15°C).
ATMs in Khiva
Khiva has now ATMs inside the old city and just outside the main entrance. You can withdraw Uzbek Som with a Visa or credit card. Most restaurants and hotels nowadays accept credit cards.
I would still advise to keep some cash on you, in case the ATMs are empty or credit cards don’t work. You can even pay with Euro or US Dollar bills.
Taxis in Khiva
You don’t need any taxis in the old city center as Khiva is so small and everything is within walking distance.
You’d only need a taxi when coming or going to the airport in Urgench. You can book a comfortable transfer here. When arriving by train from Bukhara or Tashkent, you can take a taxi for 15.000 som or walk to the old town, which is just 20 minutes from the train station.
Is Khiva safe for tourists?
You might be wondering if Khiva is safe for solo female travelers or if it’s safe for kids or families. Khiva, like the other cities in Uzbekistan, is very safe. Kids and families are a sacred part of the Uzbek culture and men almost never approach women on the streets.
Khiva is a small town that is now totally geared toward tourism. There is a whole regiment of touristic police in the old town so I would say it’s totally safe.
Petty crimes affecting foreigners such as theft or pickpocketing is unheard of in Khiva.
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9 Best Places to see in Khiva,Uzbekistan
You can visit see all Khiva’s points of interest and do the following main activities in one or two days.
Khiva Uzbekistan Map
Follow this interactive map for all the places to visit in Khiva.
1. Kalta Minor Minaret
Khiva truly reflects the way I imagined far-away ancient cities while reading the Thousand and One Night Stories.
There is one particular monument that really stands out as you start walking in the old city. It’s the Kalta Minor Minaret, a large turquoise-tiled tower that can be seen from quite a distance.
Although the minaret seems to be complete, it was actually designed to be the base of the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan.
The construction of this structure began in 1851. It was hoped that the minaret would be tall enough to enable people standing on top of it to see all the way to Bukhara.
Unfortunately, the Khan who had ordered its construction dropped dead in 1855, leaving the tiled structure incomplete.
Kalta Minor minaret is really beautiful during sunset when its blue tiles are covered in a reddish glow.
2. Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasah
The Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasah, located right next to the Kalta Minor Minaret, used to be the largest madrasahs in Central Asia. This two-storied Islamic school has 125 khudjras – cells –, intended for 260 students.
Today, the madrasah has a hotel, called Orient Star Khiva Hotel (although, at this time of updating the guide, the hotel isn’t taking any bookings), a café, a tour agency and an exchange office.
3. Kuhna Ark and the watchtower
The Kuhna Ark was the residence of Khiva’s ruler. It’s the place where the ruler kept his harem, personal stables, and a private mosque. A barrack and a jail were also on the compound.
Some would say that this ark is so full of interesting sights that it’s almost like a city within a city. It’s the perfect place to visit if you want to have an inside look at the life of a Khivan leader.
The inside of the fortress also gives you access to the summer mosque, a mosque that was typically only accessible to the Khan and his relatives.
The throne room is also worth checking out, it’s from this room that the khan delivered brutal and swift justice to the enemies of the throne.
If you want perfect sunset photos of Khiva, the watchtower is where you’ll have to be. You can access this old tower from inside the Ark.
From this vantage point, you’ll have a great view over Khiva. It’s especially beautiful during sunset, although, you might have to fight for a good viewpoint during high season…
4. Juma Mosque (aka Friday Mosque)
After traveling in Muslim countries for many years, I have to say I’ve seen a fair share of mosques but none were as eerily mysterious as this one. It is very different from any other mosque I’ve seen in Uzbekistan or in other countries such as Morocco.
The Juma mosque has 218 wooden columns supporting its low-ceiling wooden roof – a concept thought to be inspired by ancient Arabian mosques. The pillars are beautifully carved.
The wooden pillars give a special energy to this mosque. It almost feels like walking in the forest and reminded me of the Bolo Hauz mosque in Bukhara.
The center of the roof has a light well giving the place a beautiful natural light. There is a very peaceful atmosphere in this place and even in the heat of summer, the interior of the mosque stays cool and fresh.
Although the mosque is now inactive, it is said that it could once receive 500 people.
5. Islam Khoja Madrasah and Minaret
The Islam Khoja Madrasah with its beautiful minaret really is the jewel and symbol of Khiva. It was the first site in Uzbekistan to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Built in 1908, the minaret could be seen from a great distance and it helped travelers find their way to the city.
What is particular about this architectural complex is the fact that the madrasah was intentionally designed to be smaller than average while the minaret was intended to be the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan.
Back in 2019, I was able to climb the Islam Khodja minaret but it closed for restoration in 2021. The minaret finally reopened for visitors in February 2023.
You have to climb 175 steps up but you’ll get rewarded with a fantastic view over the old city! Note: climbing the minaret isn’t included in your entrance ticket. You’ll have to pay an extra 30.000 UZS at the entrance of the minaret.
6. Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
The Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum in Khiva is truly a stunning place to visit! The entrance isn’t included in your day ticket but the additional 25.000 som to enter the mausoleum is absolutely worth it!
The mausoleum is dedicated to the patron saint of Khiva: Pahlavon Mahmud. Pahlavon was a revered 14th-century Iranian poet, writer and…wrestler! Professional Iranian wrestlers still pray to Pahlavon Mahmud before matches. It’s also believed he rescued many of the people brought as slaves to Khiva.
Pahlavon Mahmud’s tomb dates back to the 14th century and was rebuilt into a mausoleum in the 19th century. The interior of the mausoleum is covered in deep blue tiles with intricate decorations and magnificent chandeliers.
You have to remove your shoes to enter and cover shoulders and knees. Keep your voice down and be respectful when entering (so no Instagrammy photoshoots…) as this is still a mausoleum.
7. traditional silk carpet weaving workshop
Khiva was right at the heart of the silk road and it’s a city where carpet weaving has always played a very important role. There is a workshop right in the old town where women continue the tradition of hand-weaving silk carpets.
It takes them two to three months to study the pattern of the carpet and to set up the weaving rack. Completing a carpet can take anywhere between six months to a whole year.
Visiting these traditional workshops is something that always fascinates us. With the coming of modern machines, a lot of the traditional skills and knowledge of craft making are lost.
The carpet workshop was started as a project in partnership with UNESCO to preserve all the traditional techniques.
Visiting this workshop in Khiva feels like stepping back in time. The entrance is free and the women working there will be happy to answer all your questions.
8. Tash Khauli Palace
The Tash Khauli Palace, also called Tosh Havli, was the summer residency of the Khan in Khiva. It’s name means ‘Stone House’ and is worth visiting for its impressive decorated rooms.
There are over 150 rooms and 9 courtyards inside this palace. The most interesting part is the Harem. The Khan had 5 wives and – so they say – 41 concubines (he must have been a happy man…). The wives lived on the left-hand side of the courtyard, and the concubines shared the rooms on the right-hand side. Not a bad idea to keep them separately I assume…
The palace is a real maze with lots of small entrances and holes in the walls. Go exploring as some will lead you to some stunning courtyards!
9. Isfandiyar Palace/ Nurullaboy Palace
Isfandiyar Palace, also called Nurullaboy Palace is located in Ditchan Qala (meaning outer city), outside the old city center, a 10-minute walk from the West Gate entrance of Itchan Qala.
The palace was built in 1906 by Mohammed Rahim Khan after being inspired by his visit to St. Petersburg. The over-the-top decorated rooms showcase a mixture of Eastern and Western architectural styles.
The entrance for Isfandiyar Palace isn’t included in your day ticket to Khiva. It costs 60.000 som but worth a visit if you want to explore something outside the city walls of Itchan Qala (fewer tourists as well).
6 Best things to do in Khiva
1. Go on a guided Khiva City Tour
I highly recommend taking a guided city tour in Khiva. There’s just so much history in this ancient Silk Road City that you won’t learn if you visit the city by yourself.
I’m talking out of experience as during my latest visit to Khiva, I hired a guide and discovered the city in a completely different way. I usually like to explore places by myself but having a guide to show me around and sharing stories about the history and her daily life in Khiva definitely added value to my experience!
You can find guides at the western gate entrance of Itchan Kala. An English-speaking guide costs around $30 to $40 for a 3-hour tour. I recommend my guide Anna Pasha (she speaks English and French). You can contact her via Whatsapp +998914363780.
You can also book a Khiva city tour online in advance. During this tour, you’ll visit every major site in Khiva while a guide gives you background info and tells stories of this mystical city.
2. Shop at the bazaars in Khiva
If you want to buy some beautiful Uzbek textiles, woodcarvings, jewelry, ceramics or traditional furry hats, you’ll find everything in Khiva. Souvenir shops are dotted everywhere, lining the streets and even occupying rooms in the old madrasas.
The best place for shopping is, in my experience, at the Allakulli Khan Caravanserai.
This old building is full of vendors selling beautiful handicrafts and textiles. You can even see some at work while you’re there. The prices are reasonable but bargaining is part of the game.
3. Visit the Photo Exhibition of KH Devonov
The exhibition is dedicated to KH Devonov, Uzbekistan’s first filmmaker and photographer in Central Asia.
It shows an interesting collection of his photographs of the daily life of the Uzbek people in this region during the first quarter of the 20th century.
4. Hunt for the Silk Road Sculptures
The streets in Khiva have recently been enriched with sculptures portraying medieval social life in the region.
The statues reflect historical events, ancient traditions, and the social life of the people of Khiva and surrounding regions during the Silk Road times. You can find them all around Itchan Khala.
I’m a little bummed I didn’t keep count on how many there are in total, so if you’re up for a little game while visiting Khiva, go statue hunting and let me know how many you found in the comments below!
4. Walk on the City walls
Go for a walk on the old walls surrounding Itchan Kala and get some beautiful aerial views over the old city center. The walls have been partially reconstructed and you can access them by a ramp at the northern gate entrance (see my Khiva map above). Update: they might charge 20.000 UZS to walk on the city walls.
5. Explore the small streets and alleys
This is one of my favorite things to do while visiting old cities. I like to wander off and get lost in the maze of streets. Khiva reminded me a lot of my time spend in Morocco‘s old medinas where I would explore small alleys and see where they would lead me.
6. Visit Khiva at night
Many of Khiva’s buildings are beautifully lit at night and it adds to the experience of the city. While you can’t enter the sites after closing time, it’s worth visiting the attractions to admire the light spectacle on the outside. It’s also perfectly safe (and magical!) to wander around Khiva alone at night.
Day trips from Khiva
1. Day trip from Khiva to the Khorezm Fortresses
The Khorezm Fortresses, also called Ellik Kala in Uzbek, are a series of 50 ancient fortress ruins in the middle of the Karakalpak Desert.
They are listed as the Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Some of the fortresses are more than 2000 years old.
Nowadays, only around 20 of these fortresses remain as some were destroyed during agricultural developments. Some of these Kala’s aren’t more than remaining foundations while others will still give you an idea of how impressive they must have been.
Some of these fortresses (Toprak Kala, Kizil Kala, Ayaz Kala and Jonobs Kala) can be visited as a day trip from Khiva or on your way to or from Nukus.
You can check with your hotel if they can arrange a driver + private transport for you. Prices start from 40 USD.
I would highly recommend arranging a guided tour to those fortresses if you want to learn more about its interesting and rich history. You can book a guided tour via a local agency or online:
2. (Multi-) day trip from Khiva to Moynaq and the ship graveyard of the Aral Sea
If you have a couple of days to spare, you can also go on a 2 or 3-day trip to visit Moynaq and the ship graveyard of the Aral Sea.
Moynaq, also known as Moʻynoq and Muynak, sits in North-West Uzbekistan, about 5 hours driving from Khiva. The city is now a husk of what it once was: the beating heart of the Aral Sea’s fishing industry. Moynaq was a pivotal port and prosperous asset to Uzbekistan, providing thousands of jobs.
But since the Aral Sea disaster, Moynaq’s main attraction is nowadays its ship graveyard, which provides a humbling experience and is a blatant reminder to respect nature.
How to visit the ship graveyard in Moynaq and the Aral Sea Disaster in Uzbekistan
If you’re traveling independently, you’ll first need to get from Khiva to Nukus, from where you’ll have to rent a private taxi. Read a detailed description here.
The easiest and quickest way would be to get there via a guided tour. Local travel companies offer these tours with pick-up and drop-off in Khiva.
I recommend either the day tour to the Aral Sea Cemetry from Khiva or, if you have the time, the 2-day trip to the Aral Sea as you’ll not only visit the ship graveyard of the Aral Sea and spend the night in a yurt camp, but also visit the ancient fortresses and medieval towns in the magnificent Ustyurt Plateau that were inaccessible to the public for a very long time.
Where to eat – the best restaurants in Khiva
Although Khiva is a relatively small city, there are many good restaurants around.
The restaurants and convenience shops in Ichan Qala can be quite expensive (for Uzbek standards) so if you’re on a budget, I recommend going to a restaurant or convenience store outside the city walls.
If you like to have some beer or wine with your food, you won’t find it on many menus but…all restaurants serve alcohol. Just ask the waiter/waitress and they’ll serve you a glass of beer and/or a glas/bottle of wine!
1. Khiva Moon
Khiva Moon is my favourite restaurant in Khiva! It’s just a 5-minute walk from the Western Gate outside the old city so the prices are great, just like the food!
The restaurant has a beautiful and cozy courtyard, and it’s usually not as busy as the more popular restaurants in the old city.
2. Teahouse Bir Gumbaz
Teahouse Bir Gumbaz is a small restaurant right across from the Kalta Minor Minaret. It’s a good place to have dinner once the temperature is not too hot in the evening.
The menu is pretty standard for Uzbekistan and the prices are reasonable. The spinach dumplings and the kebabs are super tasty. They also have a very good selection of beers. If the weather is too hot, they have little traditional roofed tables, called topchans, where you can eat in the shade.
What makes this restaurant a good choice is the view of the minaret and the fact that it’s the perfect place to watch the locals go about their everyday lives.
3. Malika Kheyvak restaurant
After traveling around Central Asia for a while, I know how refreshing it can be to eat something else than traditional dishes for a change.
Maybe you’re tired of eating Pilav after Pilav. If that’s the case then Malika Kheyvak restaurant has great pizzas, Greek salads, and European options. The eggplant salad and yogurt are also very tasty.
4. Terrassa Cafe and restaurant
Terrassa Cafe is the most popular restaurant because of its rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a fantastic sunset view over the city while having dinner.
The terrasse of this restaurant gives you a perfect view of Kuhna Ark on one side and of the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrassah on the other side.
Be aware that this is a very touristy and therefore one of the more expensive restaurants in Khiva.
Where to stay in Khiva?
There are plenty of great hotels and guesthouses in Khiva. The best place to stay is in Ichan Qala near all the popular attractions and sights.
Here are my personal recommendations:
- Khiva Siyovush Hotel → Fantastic mid-range hotel in the old city center
- Turon Khiva → Trendy 3* hotel in the old city center for those craving some luxury
- Safo Guest House → Ideal for solo travelers and backpackers
Khiva Photography Gear
Below is an overview of the gear I used to capture the architecture of Khiva. You can also see my article on photography essentials and cameras for travel photographers for more information.
Curious what I use to capture places like this? Here’s my go-to gear:
- Camera: Panasonic LUMIX DC-90
- Main lens: Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6
- Wide-angle lens: Leica DG Vario-ELMARIT 8-18mm f/2.8-4.0
- Prime lens: Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7
- Tripod: Manfrotto Compact Action Tripod (Hybrid Head)
Khiva is one of those places that feels almost unreal once you’re there… but figuring out how to fit it into your itinerary and how to travel smoothly between Uzbekistan’s destinations can take more time than you expect.
If you’d like help planning your trip, I offer custom Uzbekistan and Central Asia itineraries based on my own experience traveling and living in the region. Whether you’re short on time or simply want a route that really flows, I can help you create a journey that feels both smooth and meaningful.
You can also join one of my small-group adventure tours in Uzbekistan and Central Asia, designed in collaboration with trusted local partners and focused on authentic experiences, beautiful landscapes, and genuine cultural connections.
Or feel free to reach out! I’m always happy to hear about your travel plans. If you have any questions or new updates from your recent trip to Khiva, I’d love to hear it in the comments below!
I hope this guide was useful and that you’ll have a great time in Khiva.
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In addition to the Silk Road sculpture by the base of the Kalta Minor Minaret, there are a cluster of them in a plaza with mulberry trees and benches just to the east of the Kalta Minor Minaret. (2 men playing instruments, 2 men wrestling, a potter making a ewer, 2 men playing stringed instruments with a woman dancing nearby, and a boy dancing). I assume that these musical sculptures are related to the location of the plaza near the Qozi Kalon (or Kazi Kalyan) Madrasah, which is now the Museum of Musical Art. There is one ensemble just outside the western gate (a camel caravan), and another near the Kunya Ark (two boys sitting and eating watermelon). There may be others. We didn’t cover every inch of the Ichan Kala.
Thank you for your addition, Ruth!
Thank you so much Cynthia, for going into such detail. These articles would come really handy while I plan my trip to Uzbekistan!
Thank you Ekagar, happy to help!
Hello! We’ve visited Khiva recently and I just wanted to mention a couple of things relating to your post:
The Yandex app doesn’t seem to work in Khiva (it says the city is not supported by the app!) so getting to the center from the train station has to be with a taxi.
The monuments seemed to close more towards 5pm than 6pm in the evening (in early February), we couldn’t go up the watch tower or minaret to have a view for the sunset 🙁
The only restaurant that was open inside the city walls early February was Terrassa, we had to go out of the old city to find another open restaurant.
In any case thank you so much for your great website!
Marie
Thank you for the updates Marie!
Yandex worked for me fine in Fall 2025.
Dag Cynthia, we hebben deze zomer door Oezbekistan en Kirgizië gereisd. Ik heb veelvuldig jouw blog geraadpleegd. Ook alle tips ivm foto’s nemen waren welkom. Ik heb mijn hart verloren in Khiva. We hebben de nachttrein genomen van Bukhara naar Khiva. Tegen de ochtend waren we in Khiva en gelukkig konden we onmiddellijk inchecken in ons hotel (Ulli Oye hotel and terrace). Ticket Itchan Kale is nu 150.000 sum en ik dacht dat het 2 dagen geldig was. Wij waren heel erg tevreden over Terrassa restaurant. We zijn er zelfs 2x geweest. Voor die ligging en zicht vonden wij het niet duur. De service was ook zeer goed. Ze hebben twee terrassen. De eerste avond was er een concert op het plein en vonden we plaats op het tweede terras. Terrassa rekent geen service charge aan. Andere toeristische restaurants rekenen meestal 18% service charge aan.
Hoi Ayse, bedankt voor deze updates! Ben je het zeker dat het ticket 2 dagen geldig was? Bij mij in april maar 1 dag maar ze veranderen zo vaak… En blij om dit te horen over Terrassa. De allereerste keer vond ik het er ook fijn, daarna is de service enorm naar beneden gegaan maar hopelijk hebben ze zich inderdaad nu terug herpakt. Bedankt voor deze info en blij om te horen dat m’n blog je goed geholpen heeft!
glad to found your site! based on information stated in your site, me and my parents went to uzbekistan last week, we also contacted your tour guide in khiva and she’s definitely good!
thanks a lot for sharing, it was very very helpful!
Thanks so much for your kind words and sharing your experience! I’m very happy you had a wonderful time in Uzbekistan!
I checked the railway schedule online and it seems that there are only two trains from Bukhara to Khiva, each taking 6.5 hours. One leaving at 00:25 am and the other at 04:22 am?
Hi Toby,
For which period are you looking? There should be a faster train from Bukhara to Khiva, leaving in the early afternoon (I took that one) with arrival in Khiva in the evening.
hallo, ik ben Patrick – ik ben straks toe aan mijn 16 buitenlandse reis buiten West Europa – op veel plaatsen waar jullie geweest zijn was ik ook (Kiva, Samarkand, ….) – ik reis wel met een reisorganisatie (Joker) – een vast job verplicht mij daar toe – terug thuis zijn op een bepaalde datum is belangrijk – ik ben nu bijna 61 jaar en ik benijd jullie reisstijl – straks als ik niet meer moet werken komt West Europa aan de beurt- trekken van het één naar het ander – comfort is niet zo belangrijk mensen en culturen ontmoeten wel – goede reis – ik volg jullie – grts van Patrick Deprez – zwaluwenstraat 161 8400 Oostende
Hoi Patrick, bedankt voor je reactie! Wanneer heb je Oezbekistan bezocht? Het land is snel aan het veranderen!
En ik begrijp volledig dat het voor vele mensen niet evident is om heel lang op reis te gaan vanwege het werk enzo. Daarom dat wij nu ook avontuurlijke reizen organiseren om het reizigers en avonturiers wat makkelijker te maken 🙂
Ga je in je eigen wagen doorheen West Europa rondtrekken? Voor lange tijd?
Groetjes,
Cynthia