Get mesmerized by Tajikistan’s magnificent Fann Mountains, a trekking destination with dazzling blue and green alpine lakes, dramatic river valleys and countless mountain villages you probably didn’t even know existed!
Tajikistan had been on my “countries-to-visit-list” for a long time when I was living in its neighboring country Kyrgyzstan in 2017 – 2018. But somehow, even after spending nearly one year in Central Asia, I just never made it there until 2019.
When I got invited to go on an assignment with USAID to the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan, I didn’t have to think twice about joining this trip. I was super excited to finally visit Tajikistan and its… euhm, wait a minute, which mountains?!
During my time in Central Asia, I met many overlanders who just got back from an adventurous road trip on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan so I had heard many stories about the Pamir Mountains. I just hadn’t met anyone yet who had been to the Fann Mountains in the northwestern corner of the country.
I started googling the name and was surprised to see such stunning scenery popping on my screen. Why did nobody tell me about this region before?
The photos I found weren’t lying. The Fann Mountains – or in short “the Fanns” – are in real-life even more mind-blowingly beautiful than on the pictures! I felt it was my duty to dedicate an entire guide to this largely undiscovered part of Tajikistan.
While I’ll dazzle you with the jaw-droppingly beautiful photos, I’ve also added some useful travel information about visiting the Fann Mountains. I’m confident that you’ll want to see the utterly scenic Fann Mountains before you’ve even reached the end of this post!
And yes, I know, I’ve already been using a lot of synonyms for the word ‘extremely beautiful’ here. Now I’ll just let the photos speak for themselves.
Tip: See my Tajikistan Travel Page for a complete overview of all my travel guides and blog posts about Tajikistan!
Embark on the adventure of a lifetime: join the Pamir Highway Adventure Tour or explore the Highlights of Tajikistan, including the Jisue and Wakhan Valleys and the stunning Fann Mountains!
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Plan your trip to Tajikistan
Traveling through Tajikistan requires a bit more preparation than your average trip. These are the tools, guides, and services I personally recommend to make your journey smoother, safer, and more comfortable:
- ✈️ Find the cheapest flights → Check fares to Dushanbe
- 🥾 Bring proper travel gear → Mountain weather in Tajikistan can change very quickly
- 📱 Stay connected with an eSIM → Useful in cities and along parts of the Pamir Highway (use code CYNTHIA to receive 15% off)
- 🏨 Find hotels and guesthouses → From boutique stays in Dushanbe to family-run homestays in the Pamirs
- 🛡️ Get good travel insurance → Essential for hiking, mountain travel, and high-altitude adventures
Helpful Tajikistan travel guides
- → Tajikistan Safety Guide
- → How to Travel the Pamir Highway
- → Hiking in Tajikistan
- → Best Places to Visit in the Fann Mountains
- → Dushanbe City Guide
- → What to eat in Tajikistan
Explore Tajikistan with me
Looking for a deeper and more comfortable way to experience Tajikistan? Join one of my small-group adventure tours or let me help you plan your own unforgettable journey.
Where are the Fann Mountains and what makes them so special?
If you love mountains, you’ll definitely have a blast in Tajikistan as 93% of the country is covered by mountains.
While most travelers venture out into the Pamir and/or the Alay mountains in the center and east of Tajikistan, they often overlook the Fann mountains in the north-western corner of the country, just across the border from Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
The Fann Mountains are a group of about a hundred mountain peaks with several rising above 4000 meters. The highest peak in the Fanns is Chimtarga peak at 5,489 meters above sea level.
The mountainscapes aren’t only extremely scenic and a paradise for outdoor and trekking lovers, the Fann Mountains are also home to many stunning river valleys and azure-colored alpine lakes.
Some of the most beautiful and well-known lakes are Iskanderkul lake (also known as Alexander lake), the Seven lakes (also known as Haft Kul or Marguzor lakes), the Kulikalon Lakes and the Alaudin Lakes.
Those lakes are so divine that they each earned their own special section later on in this post! And last but not least, one of the best experiences of my time in the Fann Mountains was meeting the people living in rural villages.
I suspect that the Tajiks living in this part of the country aren’t really used to seeing many travelers because every time we passed by a village, we were welcomed like old friends.
While some women were a bit reluctant – the people from the Fann mountains are very conservative – the men and children greeted us with big smiles and waving hands. They also just loved having their photo taken!
It was hard to communicate in a common language but you could just feel the genuine interest the people had in us and they were extremely kind-hearted and hospitable. Unfortunately, as we were limited in time, we couldn’t really stay long in the villages to spend real quality time with the people.
So if you love spectacular mountains and jaw-dropping landscapes, picture-perfect camping spots on impressive lakes shores and local people who are genuinely happy to meet you, you should definitely visit the Fann Mountains!
5 highlights of Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains you shouldn’t miss
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1. Discover the Seven Lakes by car and/or on foot
The Seven Lakes in the Fann Mountains are also referred to as the Marguzor Lakes or Haft Kul. Haft Kul literally means Seven Lakes in Tajik.
The Seven Lakes are a series of glacial-melt lakes that form a chain along a narrow windy road in a rocky valley. Each lake has a different name, shape and color and they are all connected by the Shing River.
The name of the lakes are as follows: Mijgon (lake #1) – Soya (lake #2) – Gusbor (lake #3) – Nofin (lake #4) – Khurdak (lake #5) – Marguzor (lake #6) – Hazorchazma (lake #7).
There’s a – rather sad – legend about the formation of the lakes. A long time ago, an old man got lost in the valley. His seven daughters went searching for him but never found their father. The girls cried so much that their tears filled the valley and they drowned. The daughters died but the 7 lakes remained in their memory.
In reality, the lakes were formed by a landslide that dammed the Shing River in 7 different places.
To visit the Seven Lakes, you could hike the whole length of the road that winds its way through the narrow valley and the lakes.
You can start hiking from the village of Mogiyon, located just before the first lake. This village can be reached by taking a shared taxi from the city of Penjikent. The trail goes along a dirt road and is very straight forward. You can’t get lost here.
The total distance between the first and the seventh lake is about 15km one way. The elevation gain is also quite moderate, knowing that the first lake lies at an altitude of 1598 meters and the seventh lake at an altitude of 2400 meters.
In addition to the beautiful lakes, the various villages surrounding them are also a highlight. If you have some time to spare in this region, go to the villages and meet with local shepherds!
However, I personally don’t think that hiking the trail from the 1st until the 5th lake is so pleasant. You have to share the dirt narrow road with passing cars who’ll leave you in a cloud of dust.
The best way to visit the Seven Lakes is by driving there yourself, hitch a ride until Khurdak, the 5th lake or join a guided tour.
You could also drive to the 6th lake but Hazorchazma, the 7th lake, can only be reached on foot. The trail between the 6th and 7th lake can be steep at certain points but is really doable. I’d describe this hike as an easy-moderate one.
Haft Kul was my first introduction to the Fann Mountains and it was love at first sight! I visited this area during my second day in Tajikistan and already knew I was going to return there!
How to get to the Seven Lakes
You can easily get from Panjakent to the Seven Lakes by shared taxi and UAZ minibus. You can find the taxis at the Panjakent Bazaar. You can also try to hitchhike but getting a free ride in Tajikstan might be challenging as the drivers expect some payment.
Another way to get to the Seven Lakes is by booking a guided tour from Samarkand or Penjikent.
Where to stay at the Seven Lakes
There’s a beautiful homestay called Najmaddin Homestay in the village near Nofin lake (lake #4) where you can leave your heavy gear before hiking towards the upper lakes. The homestay is run by Jumaboy and his lovely family.
You could also camp in the garden or rent a private room with access to the shower for $20 per night.
2. Camp on the shores of the Kulikalon Lakes
The shores of the gorgeous Kulikalon Lakes have been one of the most beautiful places I’ve camped so far – and I’ve done a lot of camping in the past decade of my travels!
The Kulikalon Lakes are a group of 3 glacial lakes located in the Kulikalon cirque on the northern slope of the Chimtarga Mountain Peak. They lie at an altitude of 2800 meters.
The largest one is called Kulikalon lake, which translates to “a big lake” in Tajik. It’s also the second largest lake in the Fann Mountains.
The lakes are surrounded by juniper forest and grassy patches where you can pitch your tent. In the summer, shepherds from nearby villages use the lakes’ shores as their temporary summer dwellings.
You’ll have to pay the shepherds some kind of tax if you want to camp on the shores. The standard price is 20 somoni (around 2 US$) per person.
Big and small cascading streams connect the lakes so at night you have to be careful where you walk if you don’t want to end up with wet feet.
The shores of the Kulikalon Lakes can be a perfect base if you want to hike and climb the surrounding mountains.
Just bring enough food as there aren’t any supermarkets nearby. However, a few smart shepherds have set up some small self-made shops where you can buy beer or cola for 20 somoni ($2) or order a meal – potatoes, meat and bread – for about 30 somoni ($3).
How to get to the Kulikalon Lakes?
The only way to reach the Kulikalon Lakes is by hiking. The easiest path leading to the Kulikalon Lakes starts at the Artuch Alpager base camp (2107m). This is an easy trail (if you’re used to hiking) and it will bring you in 3 to 4 hours to the lakes.
If you want a bigger challenge – and a stunning panoramic view over the lakes – you could also hike across the Chukurak Pass (3106 meters). The hike is quite steep but definitely doable if you’re a physically fit person.
It usually takes 5 to 6 hours to hike from Artuch Alpager base camp to the Kulikalon Lakes across the Chukurak pass but it took our group 10 hours as we constantly stopped to snap photos along the way…
After spending one or more nights on the shores of the stunningly beautiful lakes – I could have stayed a whole week there! – you can return to Artuch or continue hiking towards the stunningly beautiful Alauddin lakes.
How to get to the Kulikalon Lakes Trailhead
The basecamp in Artuch village can be reached by shared taxi or mashrutka (minibus) from Panjakent Bazaar. A shared taxi costs around 100 TJS, a ride with the mashrutka about 50 TJS. You can spend the night in one of the homestays in Artuch.
From Artuch, you’ll have to hike (see description above) to reach the Kulikalon Lakes. You can also join a multi-day guided trekking tour to the Fann Mountains.
8-DAy moderate trekking Tour Fann Mountains
An 8-day hiking tour in the beautiful Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. You don’t need any special physical preparation to join this trek.
10-day Advanced Fann Mountains Trekking Tour
A stunning 10-day trek in the Fann Mountains. Highlights of the trek include visiting Bibijanat lake, Alauddin lake, Mutnoe lake, Chimtarga pass, and Big Alo lake. You need to be in good physical shape for this trek!
Do you want to go on an epic Tajikistan Adventure that includes a 3-day trek in the Fann Mountains?
Embark on the adventure of a lifetime: join the Pamir Highway Adventure Tour or explore the Highlights of Tajikistan, including the Jisue and Wakhan Valleys and the stunning Fann Mountains!
3. Watch the sunrise at the Alauddin Lakes
I’m not exactly what you would call ‘an early bird’. I don’t like getting up before the first rays of sunlight hit my bedroom or tent. But I would really have regretted missing the sunrise at the Alauddin Lakes!!
The Alauddin Lakes (also spelled Alaudin/ Alovaddin) are located in the Chapdara River Valley, at an altitude of 2850 meters. The crystal-clear water of the lakes is mesmerizing and changes colors, depending on the sunlight.
The lakes are surrounded by stands of pine trees and have many – relatively – flat patches on the shores where you can pitch your tent.
You’ll also have to pay if you want to camp close to the shore. The price to pitch one tent per night is 20 somoni ($2).
Nowadays you can also find some made-up chaikhanas (little tea houses) near the shores of the lakes where you can get tea, beer, coke or a simple Tajik meal for around 30 somoni.
How to get to the Alauddin Lakes?
The Alauddin Lakes are, like the Kulikalon lakes, also only accessible by hiking. If you’re limited in time or don’t like hiking that much, the fastest trail starts at Vertical Base Camp. However, there are no public transport services between Vertical Base Camp and Panjakent. You’ll have to arrange private transport in advance.
The 2.5 km-long trail that starts from the Vertical base camp to the lakes is very easy to hike and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
If you want to make a multiple-day trek, you can hike from the Alauddin Lakes to the Kulikalon Lakes (or vice versa) across the Alauddin Mountain Pass (3630 meters).
It’s quite a steep hike but relatively short as it can be done in 5 hours. Unless you’re with a group of photographers who, including yourself, stop every 5 minutes to take pictures, then add another 2 to 3 hours to the hike…
4. Multiple-day Fann Mountains trekking
The Fann Mountains are a true paradise for outdoor and trekking lovers! There are several trekking routes during which you could spend 2 days up to 2 or 3 weeks in the Fann Mountains.
I did a 3-day trek, starting from Artuch Basecamp all the way to Vertical Basecamp, across the Chukurak and Alauddin Mountain Passes. This route brought me to the Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes.
You could also hike from the Seven Lakes/ Haft Kul to the Kulikalon and/or Alauddin Lakes across the Chimtarga Pass. Or you could make a loop around the lakes crossing the Chimtarga Pass.
There are many options, depending on the amount of time you have and how much of a challenge you’re up for. It doesn’t really matter where you go in the Fann Mountains, it’s just stunning everywhere!!!
If you want to know more about trekking independently in the Fann Mountains, here are 2 very comprehensive guides:
- A Guide to Trekking Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains by Adventures of Lil Nicki
- Fann Mountains Trekking Routes and Practicalities by Going the Whole Hogg
Fann Mountains Trekking TOurs
8-DAy moderate trekking Tour Fann Mountains
An 8-day hiking tour in the beautiful Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. You don’t need any special physical preparation to join this trek.
10-day Advanced Fann Mountains Trekking Tour
A stunning 10-day trek in the Fann Mountains. Highlights of the trek include visiting Bibijanat lake, Alauddin lake, Mutnoe lake, Chimtarga pass, and Big Alo lake. You need to be in good physical shape for this trek!
I’ve also added a 3-day trekking tour in the Fann Mountains in my Highlights of Tajikistan Adventure Tour. During this tour, you’ll go on a road trip on the Pamir Highway, interspersed with day hikes in the Pamir mountains and, of course, a 3-day trek to some of the Fann Mountains’ highlights.
Embark on the adventure of a lifetime: join the Pamir Highway Adventure Tour or explore the Highlights of Tajikistan, including the Jisue and Wakhan Valleys and the stunning Fann Mountains!
5. Relax at Iskanderkul Lake
Iskanderkul is the largest lake in the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. It’s a popular destination for local tourists to spend the weekend as it’s only 130 km from Dushanbe.
The name Iskanderkul means ‘Lake of Alexander the Great’. There are some legends about the lake that are connected to this conqueror and king of Macedonia.
Iskanderkul is a great place to relax after trekking around for multiple-days in the Fann Mountains or to recover from a road trip across the Pamir Highway.
Sunrise at Iskanderkul
There are also some fun things to do in the area of Iskanderkul. Read more about it in my Iskanderkul Guide.
How to get to Iskanderkul Lake from Dushanbe
To get from Dushanbe to Iskanderkul lake, you’ll first have to take a shared taxi from Dushanbe to Sarvoda. These shared taxis leave at the shared taxi station at the end of Rudaki Street in Dushanbe. The journey is around 100 kilometers and costs around 100 TJS per person.
Once you’re in Sarvoda, you’ll have to search for another taxi towards Iskanderkul. Even though it’s only 30 more kilometers, it’ll be harder to find a shared taxi there. You’ll very likely have to take a private taxi, which will cost around 100 somoni (for the car, not per person!).
You can also opt for a day-tour from Dushanbe to Iskanderkul Lake or as a multi-day tour from Samarkand (Uzbekistan):
How to get to Iskanderkul Lake from Dushanbe
To get from Penjakent to Iskanderkul lake, you’ll first have to take a shared taxi from Penjakent to Sarvoda. These shared taxis leave at the shared taxi station at the bazaar of Penjakent. The journey is around 120 kilometers and costs around 80 TJS per person.
Once you’re in Sarvoda, it will be hard to find a shared taxi to Iskanderkul. You’ll have to take a private taxi (around 100 somoni) or hitchhike to the lake.
How to Visit the Fann Mountains – some practicalities
1. How to get to the Fann Mountains
Penjakent is the general starting point for a trip to the Fann Mountains.
From Penjakent you can find public transport (shared taxi or minibus) near the bazaar to:
- Mogiyon – to visit Haft Kul/ the Seven Lakes
- Artuch – the nearest village to the base camp if you want to do some in the Fann Mountains. It’s also the closest starting point to visit the Kulikalon lakes.
You’ll need to rent a car if you want to get to Vertical Basecamp from which you can hike to the Alauddin lakes.
You can get from Dushanbe to Penjakent by shared taxi for around $10 per person. You could also combine a trip to Uzbekistan and the Fann Mountains as the border is only a 30-minute ride from Samarkand.
You can take a shared taxi in Samarkand (around $3) until the border with Penjakent. Once you’ve crossed the border, you can take a shared taxi (between $1 to $3) to the city center of Penjakent.
2. Visa and permits to visit the Fann Mountains
You don’t need a special permit to visit the Fann Mountains but you do need a visa for Tajikistan.
Nowadays, citizens of 52 countries can enter Tajikistan visa-free for 30 days. Most other countries can apply for an e-visa. This e-visa costs around 50 USD and can be used at any border crossing. You just have to print it out and keep it with you at all times.
3. What is the best time to visit the Fann Mountains
The best time for visiting the Fann Mountains is between mid-June and mid-September, especially if you’re planning on doing some trekking and camping.
You could visit the Fann Mountains in late spring or early autumn but be prepared for cold weather! Visiting the Fann Mountains during winter time (November – April) will be challenging as most roads and mountain passes are inaccessible due to the snowfall.
The summer (June – September) are the best months to visit the Fann Mountains
I hope you enjoyed reading this guide and that the photos carried you away to the stunning Fann Mountains! Hopefully you’re feeling inspired now to add the Fann Mountains on your bucket list!
All these photos are taken with my Panasonic Lumix G90 camera, a light and compact weather-sealed mirrorless camera, perfect for travel and outdoor photography!
Have you been to Tajikistan and/or the Fann Mountains before or are you planning to travel there soon? Do you still have questions? Let me know in the comments below!
Traveling to Central Asia soon? Have a look at the following destinations:
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* This publication is made possible by the support of the American People through the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) Competitiveness, Trade, and Jobs Activity in Central Asia. The contents of this publication are the sole responsibility of Cynthia of Journal of Nomads and do not necessarily reflect the views of USAID or the United States Government.
Hi! Thanks for the detailed guides, we have used your blog many times.
We would like to make a 4 day hike in Fann mountains. How is it possible to get water in that region, do you know?
Thanks, Nelli
Hi Nelli,
I carried extra water with me and refilled my bottle whenever I found a stream near the lakes. Definitely use a good and reliable water filter system tho! Hope this helps.
Thanks for your quick answer, I wisch you all the best, Nelli
Hey Cynthia. First up, thank you so much for all the detail you have built up on this site – it’s amazingly helpful. I’m planning a trip to Tajikistan to travel the Pamir highway and do some hiking…. But I only have time for either the Fanns (Artuch/Kulikalon/Alauddin, at the beginning) or the Alay valley (Sary Mogol/Sary Bell/Jiptick passes, at the end). Which would you recommend, if you had to pick? I’m so torn! Many thanks.
Hi Kate, this is a very hard choice… It think it will depend on the time you have. You’ll need 3 days to hike to the Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes. For the Alay Mountains you’ll need a minimum of 5 days. Hope this helps?
Thank you for this! The Fann Mountains look unreal—definitely adding them to my travel list.”
They are definitely worthy of a place on your travel list :)!
Hi Cynthia – some central asia travels upcoming for myself and my boyfriend this summer. Your website and articles have been a gem – thank you.
Could you clarify that shared taxis from Penjikent go all the way to the 5th lake? Or is it only the village of Mogiyon before the 1st lake?
Thank you so much!
Hi Ashlee, some shared taxis will drive all the way to the 5th lake as there is a village there. I would double-check with the driver of the taxi to make sure he drops you off there 🙂
these photos have definitely made me want to visit the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. The untouched landscapes and the opportunity to immerse myself in nature’s beauty are truly captivating. Thank you for sharing this visual journey and providing useful information about the region.
Thank you so much for your kind words Ras!
AMAZING ARTICLE! We are Camp Artuch in Fann mountains. We are ready to meet and serve all the guests. Welcome to Tajikistan.
Great hearing from you! And thank you 🙂
Thanks, Cynthia. I will. I am well and happy, but I’ll be even more happy when the trekking resumes 🙂
Hahaha, I can fully relate to that 😀
Amazing! I want to go there as well 🙂
Cynthia, are there any agencies that can organize similar treks? At least, any places to meet fellow travellers? I would think about Pamir mountains too, but as Fanns are so mesmerising, I’d go there first… after the virus finishes, of course.
Hi Vakaris! Hope you’re happy and well! I’m sure you’d love the Fann Mountains! You could check with Kalpak Travel of Indy Guide. They offer trekking tours in the Fann Mountains.
After this pandemic, I want to visit a place which is quite different from the usual places and Tajikistan seems perfect for it. I am glad I found this article
If you love remote and authentic places with lots of stunning nature and a different culture, you’ll definitely love Tajikistan! it’s a bit of a challenge to travel around the country independently but so worthwhile!!
Omg, so many amazing photos!! I watched your video and got inspired even more. My husband and I were planning to go to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan this summer and so sad now that we had to cancel all our plans. Hopefully we’ll get there soon!
Anyways, I just wanted to say that I got really inspired after reading your post! 🙂
Hi Anya, that is so nice to hear! Thank you!
I’m sorry to hear you had to cancel your plans for Central Asia this summer. We were supposed to go back to Kyrgyzstan as well but it looks like we’ll have to cancel our plans too…
In the meantime, we’ll just travel in our minds and I’m glad to hear that our posts and videos are inspiring!
Warm wishes! Cynthia
So many beautiful places to see and just not enough time. Your blog is great and the photos are jaw dropping.
We have been almost permanent travellers for five years and after 2020 are planning to drive from UK to Almaty via Turkey, Iran and central Asia (maybe onto Mongolia & possibly into northern China) and then return via Russia. I’m thinking it might be a 4-5 year trip.
I have a couple of fairly specific specific questions if you can help.
We travel with a van & caravan during the summer and hike, windsurf and lots of relaxing and then find a winter ski apartment for when the snow arrives.
What are your thoughts on wild camping with a caravan in the region as I’m pretty confident that western type campsites are not going to be too plentiful?
I know the Islamic view of dogs isn’t great, what do you think our chances of finding a winter rental in Kazhakstan that will allow us to stay with four small dogs? Equally finding guest houses when needed.
If you have any other tips for our specific circumstances it would be great. I try to think of most things but there is always things that you just don’t consider.
We’re currently holed up in the Italian Alps and then head to Finland via Russia and the Baltics when the snow melts in 2020.
Ciao
Mark & Jax
Hello Mark! Yes, there are so many wonderful places that a lifetime isn’t enough to see them all! 🙂
You shouldn’t encounter problems with wild camping in Georgia and Central Asia. We don’t know about Iran as we haven’t been yet (probably going there in April).
There are guest houses that allow dogs but they aren’t plentiful. This might be a bit more challenging to find a winter rental but not impossible.
If you want to drive to northern China, this will be difficult to get a visa. You’ll also need a guide with you. Many people who want to drive through China often meet up in a group to share the expenses of this “guide”.
I can’t think of anything specific right now but if you’d have more questions, don’t hesitate to contact me (here or by email!)
Have a beautiful time in the Alps!
Warm wishes,
Cynthia