In this travel guide, you’ll read everything about visiting Kel Suu lake Kyrgyzstan: how to get to Kel Suu lake, how to apply for a border permit to visit Kel Suu, hiking to Kel Suu lake and more fun things to do in the Kok Kiya Valley, where to stay, when to visit and much more!
Kel Suu is a mighty jewel in the crown of Kyrgyzstan’s lakes. If you’ve had research online, you’ll be familiar with images of jagged rocks plunging into emerald waters.
As secluded goes, it’s pretty up there. Kel Suu is tucked in between in the Kakshaal Too mountain range in the At-Bashy district of the Naryn region. Due to its location teetering with the border to China, you’ll need a permit.
The lake itself is young, which means the area is pretty untouched by tourism. All of these factors make it even more breathtaking when you get there!
I have travelled to Kel Suu over 10 times now so I have lots of wisdom to pass on. Read on for the full travel guide of how to get to Kel Suu Lake, where to stay, how to get a permit and things to do at Kel Suu Lake and in the bordering Kok Kiya Valley,etc.
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About Kel Suu Lake
Kel Suu Lake sits at an altitude of 3514 meters. Its depth can vary on snowfall and rainfall but averages at five to 10 meters. The lake snakes around the Kakshaal Too mountains at an average length of 10km. Again, this is weather-dependent because rainfall can lengthen the stretch of water.
Kel Suu Lake was created in the 1980s after an earthquake prized apart crevices in the Kakshaal Too mountains, subsequently causing a huge landslide. The sheer amount of rockfall crushed together to form a natural dam over the Kurumduk River.
So as beams of sunshine chip away at the snow in spring, the water collects in Kel Suu. Trickles of water then seep through the caves, soil, and pebbles which fall underground into the Kurumduk River.
Why visit Kel Suu Lake?
This place has such ethereal energy and I often hear comparisons to scenes from Lord of the Rings (sadly I can’t promise Aragorn on a horse though).
Every time I come here, I’m rewarded with a different view. The lake is at the mercy of so many elements so you really feel so grateful to see what you get that day.
Rain and cooler temperatures can hit in a flash but don’t let this put you off. It’s equally as atmospheric when the clouds come because shrouds of fog blanket the rock face and you can hear the rain lashing into the lake. Whichever weather package you get, enjoy it because this is one of Central Asia’s most precious gifts.
It is a 9km hike to get to Kel Suu Lake from the Kok Kiya Valley, which offers incredible landscapes at every turn. After the mini-trek, you can sit on the banks for hours and soak in the scenery. Small boats are available to hire in the summer or you can bring a packraft and paddle around the nooks of the cliffs.
How to get to Kel Suu Lake
To get to Kel Suu Lake, you’ll first need to drive to the Kok Kiya Valley. I’d recommend using this as a base as it’s where the road ends before Kel Suu.
Kok Kiya Valley is worth it for the views alone. It’s nestled below towering 5,000-meter mountain peaks and a river snakes alongside the yurt camps.
How to get from Bishkek to Kel Suu
It’s a 10-hour journey to get from Bishkek to Kel Suu lake.
If you want to get to Kel Suu independently from Bishkek, grab a marshrutka from Bishkek to Naryn. Marshrutkas are shared taxis that tend to operate in former Soviet countries. They work similarly to buses, but you can jump on a marshrutka anywhere along its route if there are seats available.
From Bishkek to Naryn, daily marshrutkas leave from the New Bus Station in Bishkek. It costs around 500 KGS for a 5-hour journey.
Naryn is a halfway point (also the last place to stock up on snacks) and is the final stop for public transport.
How to get from Naryn to Kel Suu
There’s no public transport or (shared) taxi’s going grom Naryn to Kel Suu and Kok Kiya, so you’ll need to organize a private driver or join a tour.
You could looking into renting a 4×4 but most rental companies won’t allow you to drive there due to the state of the road… If you have your own 4×4 vehicle, keep in mind that it’s a bumpy ride and you need to be a strong driver.
The drive from Naryn to Kok Kiya is around 5 hours. Even though you’ll drive slowly due to bumpy roads, time will fly by as you’ll want to stop and take in all the breathtaking landscapes.
The final stretch from Kok Kiya to Kel Suu is especially beautiful and involves a river crossing. As with any alpine weather, this river can flood which makes it very difficult to cross in a car.
There is no phone signal and a stuck car won’t be rescued. Please bear this in mind and keep risks at a minimum. We want to keep this valley unspoiled and not a car graveyard! I strongly recommend walking or organizing a horse ride from Kok Kiya Valley to Kel Suu to really experience what this place offers (see things to do in Kel Suu for more information).
Discover the remote beauty of Kel Suu Lake, one of Kyrgyzstan’s most spectacular alpine lakes, on a short adventure with a small group of fellow travelers.
👉 Learn more about the Kel Suu Lake trip and how to join!
How to get a permit for Kel Suu Lake
Kel Suu Lake and the Kok Kiya Valley are located in the border zone near China so you need a border permit to visit these places.
You can apply for a permit at least two weeks in advance by emailing the CBT (tourist information centre) in Naryn. Permits cost between 1,000 and 2,000 KGS and you will need a clear photo of your passport.
Note: if you’re traveling to Kel Suu independently with a private driver, you’ll also have to pay for his permit. If you’re visiting Kel Suu with a tour company, they will usually organize the border permits for you.
Dreaming of hiking through wild mountain landscapes, horseback riding across alpine pastures, sleeping in yurts, and exploring remote valleys by 4×4 with a small group of adventurous travelers?
When is the best time to visit Kel Suu Lake
The optimum time to visit Kel Suu is from mid-June through until late September. A large part of organizing a visit to Kel Suu will be your travel there and summer is the time of year when the road will be at its safest. However, the road will still be bumpy and you’ll need a 4×4!
Now, the lake itself. One thing you need to know is that Kel Suu is elusive (which makes it more impressive when you see it).
The Kel Suu water is held in place by a natural dam that was formed after a landslide in the 1980s. The natural dam is formed of soil and pebbles, so the water trickles through.
However, if it’s a warm winter, the lake freezes only on the surface and a large part of its water gushes through into the Kurumduk River! On my first trip to Kel Suu in 2018, there was barely any water there.
It’s a gamble, but either way, you won’t regret it. During summer, there will be far more chances of seeing those crystal blue waters.
The months of October and May are also possible to visit Kel Suu but there could be snow blanketing the roads so you will need an experienced driver and a 4×4 car to get there. The 9km hike from Kok Kiya Valley to Kel Suu will be harder during this time too because you’ll be at the mercy of the elements.
In winter the lake is sometimes accessible, but the water will be frozen and you’ll be battling extreme weather. You will absolutely need an experienced driver to get to Kok Kiya.
NEVER drive or travel alone to Kok Kiya Valley during the winter. The roads and the extreme weather become very dangerous. There’s also no mobile connection so don’t take unnecessary risks!
The yurt camps will also have packed up for the season so there won’t be many options to find shelter. So, ensure you’re properly equipped… and ready to brace temperatures of -30°C/-22°F! You could be cheeky and ask to stay with a shepherd who stays there all year round in his hut but don’t count on this.
Where to stay in Kel Suu and Kok Kiya Valley
Wild camping in summer is a beautiful choice. There are plenty of green secluded spaces to pitch up in Kok Kiya Valley. Ensure you are prepared for the temperatures to drop during the night and that you are not pitching on someone’s land.
I wouldn’t recommend camping on the shores of Kel Suu as the terrain is very rocky and it can get very windy up there.
In the summer season, there’ll be many yurt camps dispersed by the river banks in Kok Kiya Valley. If you’re looking for some cozy cover and a hot meal, you can head over and try for a space.
Booking in advance with the yurt camps is difficult because there is no mobile or Wi-Fi connection. Just rock up, knock on their doors and ask for availability. There is a good chance of availability of groups of up to four people. Many yurt camps have dogs so approach calmly and be respectful to the owners. Prices range around 1,500 KGS, with breakfast and dinner included.
Things to do in Kel Suu Lake area
1. Hike to Kel Suu Lake from Kok Kiya Valley
- Distance: 18 km roundtrip
- Hiking time: 5 hours
- Elevation: +300 meters
- Difficulty: Easy/ Medium (last part to the lake includes a steep hill)
If you’ve set up a base in Kok Kiya Valley, then this mini Kel Suu trek is an absolute must!
The snow-cloaked peaks, rushing rivers and jailoo landscapes will beckon you in and you won’t want to leave! Some say the topography reminds them of Iceland which doesn’t surprise me… it’s magnificent!
Always pack for uncertain weather. The sun could be shining in the valley, but it could be a totally different story in the mountains. If it’s raining, bring hiking poles, warm gloves, and maybe a bag to sit on if you have to find shelter in a cave.
It’s a 9km one-way trip from the yurt camps in Kok Kiya Valley to Kel Suu Lake which will take around three hours with a 300-meter ascent. The route is pretty clear to navigate, but if you’re unsure, take a look at the app maps.me and plan it before you set off. You can also download the GPS coordinates.
The first part is simple. Follow the dirt path in the Kok Kiya Valley and have the river to your left. Follow the trail around the bend to the right and continue to stay on the right side of the river.
There are so many beautiful viewpoints to stop at on the way and you’ll often see yaks, horses, cows, and falcons.
Next, you’ll notice that the path dwindles down, and becomes narrower and steeper. You’ll also be surrounded by magnanimous peaks.
Now for the climbing. You’ll walk on and the path will envelop into the rocks with a steep ascent. It curves around and you’ll see a spring erupt from the grass (one of the places where Kel Suu water escapes and merges with the Kurumduk River!) Depending on rainfall, this is where you may have to be quick on your toes.
The path then leads onto a larger dirt road. Continue up and you’ll find yourself at Kel Suu Lake. The approach up to it is magical.
Return the same way. Don’t follow the dirt road all the way down because you’ll end up at the wrong side of the river and you’ll have to wade over it. (Unless you fancy a glacial swim, in which case, be my guest ;)).
2. Horse ride to Kel Suu Lake from Kok Kiya Valley
A known Kyrgyz phrase is “Horses are the Kyrgyz wings” and the animals are a fundamental part of nomad culture here. I’d really recommend you try riding – even if you’ve never ridden a horse before – and be with these beautiful creatures in the mountains.
A round trip on horseback from Kok Kiya valley to Kel Suu Lake will take half a day. It is 2500 KGS per horse and around 2500 for a horse guide per group. You can organize it beforehand through a local tour company or on the spot with one of the yurt camps at the Kok Kiya Valley.
Note: You can’t go alone with the horses, a horse guide will need to accompany you on the trip. The horse guide cost can be shared between however many of you there are.
3. Horse ride to Kel Suu Lake from Naryn (Birinchi May village)
If you like traveling on horseback, you can also go on a multi-day horse riding tour from the village Birinchi-May near Naryn to Kel Suu lake.
Depending on how fast you like to travel, it takes 3 to 5 days to ride through the Ak-Say and At-Bashy Valleys with Kel Suu as your final destination. You can read more about this horse tour here.
Feeling inspired for a long horse ride expedition? I’ve just launched a new horse ride expedition through Sary Chelek National Park and the remote Alay Mountains.
4. Packrafting in the Kok Kiya Valley
A packraft is a nifty inflatable kayak. They’re lightweight and can add a really fun dimension of transport to your backpacking. Most packrafts squeeze down to similar sizing to what a tent would. Their main advantages are they are brilliant for portaging (lifting over land) and can handle different bodies of water.
Packrafting gives you so much freedom on the water and this area is a magical place to paddle. Scroll down further for more info about paddling on Kel Suu Lake.
It’s possible to paddle on the river, starting from the base where the steep climb to Kel Suu begins all the way to the yurt camps in Kok Kiya Valley.
It’s such a beautiful feeling to glide through this impressive water system. Watch out for shallow parts as the rocks can be sharp! Also, always check the forecast for winds, weather and strength of water flow.
5. Visit the (yak) shepherds in Kok Kiya Valley
If you’re craving something a little more chilled out, walk around the valley. During summer, there’ll be yak, cows and horses grazing. Lay back on the grass and watch the shepherds gallop about on their horses.
6. Things to do at Kel Suu Lake itself
6.1 Go kayaking or packrafting
Granted that with steep rock faces and winding mountain peaks, there’ll be strong winds whipping around while on the water.
If you have a GPS weather device, check the winds before heading out on the water. If the winds are strong, don’t head out. It’s not worth it. There are no beaches or soft ground to pull up in when you’ve set off and it can be dangerous if you get stuck.
6.2 Rent a motorboat or rowing boat
Local shepherds rent out the boats from the shore of Kel Suu during summer. It’s a simple and easy way to get about the lake. The rowing boats are priced at 500KGS per person for 30 minutes, while the motorboats are 1,000 KGS per person for 30 minutes.
6.3 Hike to nearby caves
There are some beautiful rock formations adorned in nearby caves and on the slabs. It’s possible to do some scrambling here too. The caves and overhangs are really useful if you get caught in a rain shower too!
6.4 Swim in the lake
This is one wild swim that’ll pack a punch… but if you like cold water swimming, you’ll love it.
6.5 Explore the viewpoints
Don’t forget your camera! There is so much to see and explore all the angles this place has to offer.
What to pack for Kel Suu Lake and Kok Kiya Valley
- Kel Suu and Kok Kiya sit at high altitudes (above 3000 meters/ 9842 ft) and if you haven’t had any altitude acclimatization before visiting this area, you might feel dizzy and/or have a slight headache on your first day/evening there. Bring some paracetamol, drink plenty of water and take it easy until you feel better.
- As drinking water goes, there aren’t any shops in the area to buy bottled water. Buy some in Naryn or At-Bashy on your way to Kok Kiya or Kel Suu. There’s also fresh water spring near Kel Suu lake. Don’t drink from the river or Kel Suu Lake. If you haven’t already, I’d recommend buying a LifeStraw bottle or a Steripen. These two items sterilize water and help prevent your tum from bugs. If you stay at one of the yurt camps, you can ask for boiled water.
- The same goes for food. The final stop to stock up on snacks is the town of At-Bashi – two hours from Kel Suu. If you do get stuck during the summer you can try for a hot meal and a bed to stay in the yurt camps (read above for where to stay).
- Prepare to get four seasons in one day. Even in summer months, the temperatures can dip into freezing at night so pack down/padded jackets, hats, and thermals. I swear by the onion philosophy: think about bringing plenty of layers that you can pull on or peel off easily. Day temps in summer can average around 20°C/ 68°F so consider packing sun cream, t-shirts, and LOTS of water.
- For a day hike to Kel Suu Lake from Kok Kiya Vallery during the summer, the four-season rule still applies. Sun can beam in the valley, but it can be a totally different story a few kilometers away in the peaks. Bring gear suitable for being in the mountains: waterproofs, a waterproof cover, a waterproof phone case, hiking poles (especially useful to balance with slippery slopes!), gloves, and a hat. Buff-type headwear is super useful because you can use it as a hat/scarf/headband and it weighs next to nothing. A thick garden waste bag is also super useful if you need a place to sit down when it’s wet… and it will also function as an extra layer to waterproof your bag! You’re welcome.
- There are no hot showers at the yurt camps. If you want to keep fresh without the comfort of a shower, I would bring biodegradable baby wipes or biodegradable soap.
- If you’re wild camping, pack a camping kit suitable for alpine mountain climates. If you’re planning to go to Kok Kiya Valley at the tail-end of spring or autumn, snow is very likely and you should be prepared. The main thing is to be equipped and don’t do anything stupid. This is not the place for bravado… especially if an emergency happens because there is no phone signal!
Where to go after or before: Places to explore near Kel Suu Lake and Kok Kiya Valley
While you’re in such remote part of Kyrgyzstan, you might as well combine your trip to Kel Suu with one (or more) of the following destinations in the Naryn region.
1. Kol Tor Lake, At Bashi
All of Kyrgyzstan’s lakes shine with their own character and this water is no exception. For the reluctant walkers – this is one for you. It’s a 2km round trip from an open jailoo (summer pasture for farmers) at the northern bank of the At-Bashi River.
The hike to the lake is pretty special! You’ll pass a tiny glacier on your right in a gorge but you’ll also be in the shadow of the mountain peaks. It is very humbling.
This place is only accessible by a 4×4 vehicle and you’ll need a driver with excellent experience of off-roading so ideally, you combine a visit to Kol Tor lake with your trip to Kel Suu.
2. Tash Rabat and Panda Pass
The ancient Tash Rabat caravanserai is nestled in a luscious valley at an altitude of 3000 meters. The area’s rolling hills have been carved out by the Tash-Rabat River which is a vital water source for grazing horses, cows, sheep and yaks.
There are very few historical sites left in Kyrgyzstan so this fortress is a stark reminder of how precious this place is. The stone castle has also been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.
Panda Pass is a mountain pass offering an abundance of views of Chatyr Kul Lake. The trail to Panda Pass can be done in a day on foot or by horse from Tash Rabat caravanserai. Read more about both places in: How to visit mysterious Tash Rabat Caravanserai in Kyrgyzstan.
See my Kyrgyzstan Adventure Tours combining a visit to Tash Rabat, Panda Pass, Kok Kiya Valley and Kel Suu.
3. Koshoy Korgon, At Bashy
The Koshoy is the last remnant of a settlement which is said to have been in use in the 12th century. You can freely roam its former walls and fortress and put your mind back to that time. There is a museum just by the entrance – but like with Tash-Rabat – you’ll need to check in with the attendant as it could be closed on certain days. Head to Kara-Suu village to find out more information.
To get to Koshoy Korgon independently, you’ll have to organize a taxi from the village of At-Bashi, located at 51 km from the fortress of Koshoy Korgon.
4. Chatyr Kul Lake
Chatyr Kul Lake, translated in Kyrgyz as “heavenly lake”, is an alpine wonder which sits between the At Bashy and Torugart-Too mountain ranges. It is the third largest lake in the country, following Issyk-Kul and Son-Kul.
You can drive to Chatyr Kul if you have 4×4 transport or you can hike there from Tash Rabat but just as with Kel Suu lake, you need a border permit to access this area. Read more about it here.
5. Shaar Waterfall
The Shaar waterfall is one of Central Asia’s largest waterfalls: around 300 meters of water plummets down around lush greenery (in summer!). If you’re a fan of flora and fauna, be sure to watch where you step as rare plants unique to Kyrgyzstan grow here.
The waterfall sits in the gorge of the Bash-Kaindy River which is only accessible on foot or on horseback from the village of Bash-Kaindy. You’ll have to organise a private taxi or rent a car to get to this small village. From there, it is a 20km hike (one-way) from the entrance of the Bash-Kaindy gorge. You can find the GPS coordinates for this hike here.
6. Eki-Naryn Valley
Every valley in Kyrgyzstan bursts with its own color and identity. The Eki-Naryn Valley is luscious and cloaked with orange clay at the cliffs of the riverside.
Eki-Naryn translates as ‘two-Naryn’ in Kyrgyz. This is because two tributaries of the river Naryn join together in force. If you’re craving some calm and want to experience Kyrgrystan’s jailoo offerings, this is a wonderful place.
Eki-Naryn is located about an hour’s drive away from Naryn. You can get a bus here from Naryn or organise a private taxi hire.
I hope this travel guide to Kel Suu Lake and Kok Kiya Valley provided you with all the info you were looking for. I’m wishing you a great trip!
If you have any questions or remarks, let them know in the comments below – they could be useful to other travelers, or send me an email.
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Wow, such a helpful comprehensive guide. Thank you so much, will help planning our Kyrgyzstan trip .
Hi Ceri, happy to hear this! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this comprehensive post! It has really helped with my planning. Have you ever done the drive from Naryn to Kok kiya valley? Do you have any tips? I’ll already be road tripping from Osh in a 4×4 so I’d like to do the drive myself but can’t find a route online. Do you have one you could send over or is it pretty obvious when you’re there?
Hi Shaina, I’ve done the trip from Naryn to Kel Suu many times 🙂 Are you driving your own 4×4? I’m asking as most rental companies won’t allow you to drive to Kel Suu in a rental car. As for driving from Osh, you’ll have to take the road via Kazarman (currently in bad condition due to floods) to Naryn and from there to Kel Suu. You should download and use maps.me for navigation in Kyrgyzstan. Hope this helps.
Maps.me is a great tip! And thanks for the heads up about kazarman. Do you know anything about the current road conditions between Naryn and Kok kiya valley?
The road conditions depend on the weather conditions: if it doesn’t rain, you’ll be fine but avoid driving there when it rains.
Thank you! I’m new to using the maps.me app. Did you download the entire Kyrgyzstan map? I also see that there’s a river crossing. Is it tricky finding the best place to cross?
Hi Shaina, you can’ t drive the whole way to Kel Suu Lake because of the river crossing. Please don’t attempt it either as you’ll bring yourself in a dangerous situation. You can drive to the Kok Kiya Valley and from there hike to Kel Suu Lake (please read the instructions for the hike in my post, also where to cross the river) or on horse back.
Wow Packrafting in Kok Kiya looks amazing! do you know where I could rent a packraft Cynthia?
Hi Sebastiano, you won’t find places in Kyrgyzstan that rent out a packraft. You can rent a kayak or boat on the shores of Kel Suu lake 🙂
There is a very nice new restaurant in Naryn called Datka in 52, lenina st. Good food, nice and friendly staff. Local food, sushi and European food.
Thank you for this suggestion John, highly appreciated!
Fantastic information! Your blogs have been super helpful for Central Asia. I just want to note that Kel Suu has definitely now been discovered. I would advise not going on a Saturday. We camped there for a couple days and the hundreds on people that arrived on Saturday shocked us (not exaggerating on numbers.) it seems to be a weekend destination for Russians that live elsewhere in the country. Other days of the week should be fine. Daily visitors are closer to 25-50 depending on weather. There are dozens of yurts in the valley now. We were able to find a small place for 1500 with breakfast and dinner. But the first place we asked said 6000 for the yurt with only breakfast (I assume they meant private). A bigger place we spoke to said 2100 with breakfast and dinner. So you might need to shop around and negotiate.
Thanks for the update Kaya-Lynn. Yes, it seems to be a popular place these days for local people (or expats) living in Bishkek to go on a weekend trip to Kel Suu. 6000 for a yurt stay is really a lot, was it in a big touristic camp? I’m afraid that prices will go up and you’re right with the advice to shop around a little.