Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Samarkand - Registan - Journal of Nomads

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Backpacking in Uzbekistan

This is a complete travel guide with all the information you need to know before you go backpacking in Uzbekistan.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Journal of Nomads

 

Uzbekistan is currently still an off-the-beaten-path destination but I suspect that’s going to change soon! It’s a beautiful country that you won’t quickly forget after your visit!

 

It’s located on the famous Silk Road, where you can find a wealth of culture and architecture. It’s also very easy to travel independently in Uzbekistan. Here is all the practical information you need to know to travel and go backpacking in Uzbekistan.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Samarkand - Journal of Nomads

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS
  1. Do you need a visa for Uzbekistan?
  2. Which vaccinations do you need for Uzbekistan?
  3. What you need to pack on your trip
  4. The best time to travel
  5. Getting around in Uzbekistan
  6. Accommodation in Uzbekistan
  7. Drinks and food in Uzbekistan
  8. Religion in Uzbekistan
  9. Languages spoken in Uzbekistan
  10. Safety in Uzbekistan

 

1. Do you need a visa for Uzbekistan?

 

Update 2019

It used to be a quite a hassle and a pricey affair to obtain a tourist visa for Uzbekistan. You had to apply for a visa in advance, you needed an LOI (Letter of Invitation) and the visa was date-specific. However, a lot has changed in the last few years!

 

Since Shavkat Mirziyoyev became the new president of Uzbekistan in 2016, he’s been making big changes to accelerate the tourism development of the country by making it easier for foreigners to enter Uzbekistan. 

 

When I traveled to Uzbekistan in December 2017, I still had to apply for a visa in a nearby embassy. I was only allowed to stay 15-days and my visa was date-specific so I had to properly plan my journey to Uzbekistan. I was lucky I didn’t need an LOI as a Belgian citizen, which saved me quite some money.

 

Niko, being a Canadian citizen, had to go through a lot more paperwork to obtain his visa and in the end, he decided not to join me (but that was also because his brothers were coming to visit him at the same time I already planned my travels to Uzbekistan). Now he can enter the country visa-free!

 

The Ultimate Guide to Backpacking in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

 

So what’s the current visa policy for Uzbekistan?

 

Citizens of Azerbaijan, Armenia, Belarus, Ukraine, Moldova, Russia, Georgia, and Kazakhstan can visit Uzbekistan without a visa for 90 days. Citizens of Kyrgyzstan can go visa-free for 60 days

 

Starting from 1 February 2019, citizens of the following countries can travel to Uzbekistan visa-free for a period of 30 days

Australia, Austria, Argentina, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Vatican, Luxembourg, Hungary, Brunei Darussalam, Greece, Ireland, Iceland, Italy, Canada, Andorra, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Belgium, Denmark, Spain, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Latvia, Lithuania, Mongolia, New Zealand, Portugal, Bulgaria, Republic of Cyprus, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Serbia, Slovenia, Croatia, Chile, Romania, Slovakia, United Kingdom, Brazil, Finland, Montenegro, Czech Republic, Switzerland, Estonia, Israel, Indonesia, South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, Turkey and Japan.

 

As of February 2019, citizens of 76 countries – including the United States, the United Arab Emirates, China, and India – are granted the right to receive an electronic entry visa for a period to 30 days

 

If your country of citizenship isn’t on any list, you’ll still need to apply for a visa in the Uzbek Embassy. 

 

How to apply for an e-visa for Uzbekistan and how much does it cost?

 

Applying for an electronic visa for Uzbekistan is very easy but remember that you should apply at least 3 days before your arrival in the country!

 

Just go to the Official Electronic Visa Portal of Uzbekistan and fill in your information. This visa is still date-specific so you need to enter the date of your arrival and departure. Remember that you can stay up to 30 days in the country!

 

Once you’ve filled in your personal details, you have to upload a passport photo and a scanned copy of your passport (look here for guidelines). 

 

After you’ve activated your application by entering your email address, you’ll need to pay for the consular fee to receive your e-visa. The cost of obtaining an e-visa is 20 USD and has to be paid with a valid Visa card. 

 

Once your application is approved, the electronic visa will be sent to your email address in pdf format within 48 hours. Print the e-visa so you can show it upon your arrival. 

 

The Ultimate Guide to Backpacking in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

 

2. Which vaccinations do you need for Uzbekistan?

 

You don’t need any compulsory vaccinations to travel in Uzbekistan. However, vaccinations for DTP, Hepatitis A and typhoid are recommended; especially if you are planning on eating something ‘more adventurous’ or if you want to travel to remote villages.

 

 

3. What do you need to pack for a trip to Uzbekistan?

 

Let’s start with what you CAN’T bring into the country:

 

3.1 Prohibited items:

Be careful what you take regarding medicines. Painkillers with codeine, sleeping pills and antidepressants are strictly forbidden. Be sure to check out this list of prohibited substances before you pack your medicine box.

 

Keep it as simple as possible in terms of medication! I brought some regular painkillers and immodium (definitely bring something along in the probable case of diarrhea). If you need special medication, make sure you bring the prescription, the box and the instruction sheet with you!

 

You also need to be aware of what type of books you bring with you. You better leave literature on religion, politics and history at home. A travel guide is okay.

 

When I crossed the land border from Kyrgyzstan, a customs officer checked my e-reader. I had to show all my books and give some extra explanation about some of the content. I had to explain what “ The 4-hour work week” by Tim Ferris was about. The officer just couldn’t grasp the concept of how someone can earn a full-time income by working only 4 hours a week.

 

Don’t bring any pornographic films and photos! They are really strict about this and the customs officers might check your phone, camera or laptop. You also better remove all films and photos that have something to do with the military, politics, …

 

It’s also not allowed to take pictures of official agencies, officers and police officers. And – unfortunately – drones are also prohibited.

 

Oh, and they don’t like (pictures of) bearded men … Islamic fundamentalism is heavily suppressed in Uzbekistan and bearded men are seen as a threat. You can read more about it here

 

It may all seem a bit overwhelming but don’t let this stop you from traveling to Uzbekistan. As long as you take the above into account, you absolutely won’t have problems.

 

The Ultimate Guide to Backpacking in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

Let’s now talk about what you have to bring with you:

 

3.2 Money

In Uzbekistan, you pay with the Uzbek Sum (UZS). 1USD is about 8,337 UZS (January 2019).

There are very few cash machines in the country and if you already find one, chances are that it doesn’t work. So bring cash money (count roughly on 400USD per person for 15 days)! You can exchange US dollars on the spot. Make sure that the notes are undamaged!

 

Much has changed since September 2017 concerning places where you can exchange currency in Uzbekistan. It used to more profitable to exchange your money on the black market, where the exchange rate was higher.

 

But since September 2017 the Uzbek government has made the black market unattractive by strongly increasing the fixed exchange rate in the banks. It’s now more profitable – and more reliable – to go to a bank to buy Uzbek Sum. Take an extra bag, because you will leave the bank with a huge pile of money!

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - money in Uzbekistan- Journal of Nomads
This pile of money (1.200.000 UZS) was worth $150…

 

 

It used to be very difficult to exchange the Uzbek sum back into US dollars. Nowadays it’s no longer a problem. Before you leave the country, you can exchange your remaining sum at the bank or in one of the exchange offices at the land borders.

 

When I crossed the land border with Kyrgyzstan, I was able to exchange my remaining Uzbek sum in Kyrgyz Sum in an exchange office at the border.

 

Important:
When you enter the country, you’ll have to fill in a form in which you must state how much cash you have on you. Keep this document carefully with you!

 

When leaving Uzbekistan, you’ll have to fill in the same form again, indicating how much cash you have left. It’s very important that you leave the country with less money! There’s a chance that both documents will be compared.

 

If it turns out that you have more money on you than when you entered the country, they will suspect you of illegal practices. And believe me, you really DON’T WANT this to happen!!

 

The Ultimate Guide to Backpacking in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

3.3 Travel Insurance

It isn’t mandatory to have travel insurance if you are traveling to Uzbekistan. However, I would suggest getting one for the period of your trip. You just never know…

 

If you don’t have travel insurance yet, I suggest to sign up for the travel insurance provided by World Nomads. Click here for more information and prices.

 

 

3.4 Power sockets in Uzbekistan

The power sockets in Uzbekistan are of type C and F. The standard voltage is 220 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz.

 

 

 

3.5 What kind of clothes should you wear in Uzbekistan?

Uzbekistan has a continental climate with four seasons. Pack appropriate clothes for the period in which you’re traveling. Winters can be very cold (with average temperatures of -10°C) and there’s often a lot of snow.

 

Bring warm clothing if you plan on traveling to Uzbekistan between the months of November and March. Summers (June – September) are very hot (with average temperatures of 35°C) so pack light summer clothing in your backpack.

 

Keep in mind that the Uzbeks are rather conservative people so respect their culture.

 

As a woman, don’t walk around in miniskirts, short shorts, and revealing tops. T-shirts with short sleeves and knee-length skirts, dresses and shorts are okay, except for when you visit religious buildings and places. There you should cover your arms and wear a long skirt or trousers.

 

It’s also not really appropriate for a man to wear shorts. And you better leave any singlets at home. Wear long cotton trousers instead.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Samarkand - Journal of Nomads

 

 

3.6 Can you drink the tap water in Uzbekistan?

I wouldn’t advise you to drink the tap water. Buy bottles of water in the local supermarkets or bring a water bottle with a filter.

 

These are reusable bottles that filter water using a microfiltration device. When you drink tap water using a water bottle with filter, any dirt, bacteria or parasites will be trapped in the fibers of the filter, while the clean water passes through.

 

It’s not only good for your belly and wallet, it’s also great for the environment because you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles of water!

 

 

 

4. What is the best time to travel to Uzbekistan?

 

The best time to visit Uzbekistan is in spring or autumn. The temperature during that period will be very pleasant to travel and walk around, in contrast to the hot summer months.

 

Winter in Uzbekistan can also be very special. It might be cold but the snow transforms everything into a beautiful winter wonderland. That’s why I traveled to Uzbekistan in December. Unfortunately, I arrived a bit too late (or was it too early?).

 

It had snowed several days before my arrival and I could only enjoy the last bits of it in the capital Tashkent. In the other cities, the snow had already disappeared by the time I arrived there.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - snow in Tashkent - Journal of Nomads

The last traces of snow in Tashkent

 

 

5. Getting around in Uzbekistan: by public transport, renting a car or hitchhiking?

 

5.1 Traveling by public transport in Uzbekistan

It’s very easy to travel by public transport in Uzbekistan. It is also very cheap! You can travel by train or with a shared taxi.

 

You can reach almost all the touristic destinations in Uzbekistan by train.

 

There are two types of trains: the Afrosiyob – a modern express train, and the Sharq – an old-fashioned slow train. The latter is the cheapest but both trains are very comfortable.

 

The Sharq is the only train with which you can travel at night (eg from Tashkent to Urgench). You can either book a private sleeper (1st class) or a shared sleeper (2nd class).

 

You can travel in 1st and 2nd class in the Afrosiyob and there are 3 classes in the Sharq. Both trains sell coffee, tea, and snacks during the trip.

 

You can buy tickets at the ticket counter at the train station. Most clerks understand English. It’s better to buy your ticket one day in advance, especially if you are traveling during the high season (May – September). Don’t forget to bring your passport.

 

An economy ticket for the Afrosiyob costs around 70.000 UZS for a 3-hour train journey. You can view the travel schedules on the Uzbek Railways website.

 

On the day of departure, arrive at least 1 hour in advance at the train station. There might be long queues at the entrance where your luggage and passport get checked.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - traveling by train in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads
2nd class in the Sharq train

 

 

You can also travel by shared taxi. Those taxis leave at a fixed location – often just outside the city. Your hostel or hotel will know where to find them. You share these taxis with other passengers (which you don’t have to search for yourself). The taxi leaves when it is full.

 

You won’t have to search long for a taxi. The drivers will probably find you first (they’ll ask where you’re going or they’ll be shouting out their destination)… Be careful because they can be quite pushy!

 

Try to have an idea of how much you have to pay for a ride (ask about it in your hotel/hostel) because the drivers like to double the rate for ignorant tourists.

 

Before you get in the taxi, clearly affirm the agreed price and that you want to share the taxi with other passengers. Otherwise, you’ll have to pay the full price!

 

Pay maximum 8.000 UZS for a ride within the city. A trip of 2 to 3 hours to another city will cost you around 50.000 UZS, depending on how good you are at bargaining. I suck at bargaining. That’s why I preferred to travel by train. It’s much more straightforward and comfortable!

 

 

5.2 Traveling by car in Uzbekistan

It used to be impossible for foreigners to rent a car in Uzbekistan. Apparently, this changed recently but it’s still very expensive if you want to drive by yourself. It is much cheaper to rent a car with driver.

 

In case you’re traveling to Uzbekistan with your own car, you’re allowed to bring it into the country as long as you have all the required documents. More information can be found here.

 

Know that it’s very difficult to find diesel; propane is the main fuel in Uzbekistan, petrol comes in second.

Check out to the website of Caravanistan for more information on traveling by car in Uzbekistan.

 

 

5.3 Hitchhiking in Uzbekistan

It’s allowed and possible to hitchhike in Uzbekistan but know that most drivers will charge you money for the ride. Be very clear from the start that you don’t have money if you don’t want to pay for the ride.

 

It will play to your advantage if you have a basic knowledge of the language (see below ‘9. Which languages are spoken in Uzbekistan‘) so that you can explain your intentions.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Samarkand - Journal of Nomads

 

 

6. Accommodation in Uzbekistan

 

According to the law, it’s not allowed to stay with a host family and tourists have to register every night in a hotel or hostel. This happens automatically when you check in. You have to keep these registration slips with you as they can be checked when you leave the country.

 

However, when I left Uzbekistan, no one checked my registration papers. But you never know, chances are that they will ask for it at the border control.

 

Don’t feel discouraged if you were planning on camping or staying with a host family. As long as you register at least 1 out of 3 nights in a hotel or hostel, you won’t run into problems.

 

Only if you’re planning on spending a few days in the Fergana valley, you have to get registered there every evening. Don’t ignore these rules, because not only you but also your host family could get into trouble.

 

If you take the overnight train, this ticket is also seen as a registration (so keep your tickets with you!).

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - registration - Journal of Nomads

 

 

7. Drinks and food in Uzbekistan

 

The Uzbek cuisine is characterized by dishes that consist mainly of rice, noodles, vegetables and lots of mutton. As a vegetarian, it can be challenging – but not impossible – to find meat-free meals, but if you’re a vegan, it’ll be very hard to eat a typical Uzbek meal.

 

Plov is the most popular dish in Uzbekistan. It consists of rice, mutton, onions, carrots and raisins baked in sheep fat. In the summer you’ll also find lots of fruit, especially the melons are delicious!! You can buy fresh vegetables, fruit, various spices and sweet Uzbek candy one of the many local markets.

 

If you want a break from the Uzbek cuisine, you can eat in one of the many international restaurants in the larger cities – such as Tashkent and Samarkand.

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know- food in Uzbekistan - plov - Journal of Nomads
In the Plov center of Tashkent

 

 

The food is mainly served with water or soft drinks. Tea is available everywhere but as a coffee lover, you’ll have to be satisfied with instant coffee. There are some coffee houses in the larger cities where they serve (relatively) high-quality coffee.

 

You can buy alcoholic drinks – such as beer and Uzbek wine (really delicious!) – in the local supermarkets. Vodka is available in all shapes and sizes.

 

 

8. Religion in Uzbekistan

 

Uzbekistan is a post-Soviet state. During the Soviet regime, religious practices were severely suppressed. Only after the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, did the religious freedom in Uzbekistan increase.

 

About 90% of the population is Muslim and 10% is Russian Orthodox. Islamic fundamentalist groups that want to return to conservative Islam are officially banned in Uzbekistan. Because of this, you won’t see many people practice their religion in public.

 

You’ll notice that many women wear a headscarf (which is more connected to the culture) and the Uzbeks are quite conservative. Keep this in mind concerning your appearance (see 3.5 What kind of clothes should I wear).

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - Religion in Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

 

9. Which languages are spoken in Uzbekistan?

 

The official language is Uzbek. It belongs to the family of Turkic languages so if you speak some Turkish, you might understand Uzbek a little bit. Especially the numbers are similar. My knowledge of the Turkish language helped a lot when I had to bargain with vendors and taxi drivers!

 

Many Uzbek people speak Russian as a second language. That’s because Uzbekistan was once part of the Soviet Union. Knowing some Russian language will certainly play to your advantage if you want to get to know the Uzbeks better! You get to know a country in a different way when you can talk to its citizens!

 

People who work in the hospitality sector will know some English and you might meet some young Uzbeks who can speak it as well, but most people won’t understand the language.

 

A phrasebook will definitely be useful. I recommend the Lonely Planet Russian Phrasebook & Dictionary.

 

I learn a new language using the audio classes of Pimsleur. This is a great learning method to study a new language. It helped me a lot to quickly reach a basic level in Russian. Click here for more information:
Learn a New Language with Pimsleur!

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - people of Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads
The Uzbeks love to interact with foreigners!

 

 

10. Safety in Uzbekistan

 

Many people wonder if it’s safe to travel in Uzbekistan. It’s still a relatively unknown country in Central Asia and its neighboring country Afghanistan doesn’t have the best reputation. A country ending with -stan gets quickly associated with danger. However, you absolutely have nothing to worry about! Uzbekistan is totally safe!

 

You’ll see police officers on every street corner and at every public place and the people don’t have any bad intentions. Tourism is a rich source of income and the Uzbeks want you to have a fantastic experience in their country. They are also very hospitable and you’ll be received as a very welcome guest!

 

I traveled on my own to Uzbekistan and I’ve never felt unsafe! Read about my solo journey here

 

Backpacking to Uzbekistan - Everything you need to know - solo female travel Uzbekistan - Journal of Nomads

 

 

Do you still have questions about your upcoming journey to Uzbekistan? Let me know in the comments below or send me an email!

 

 

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Writer, photographer and co-founder at Journal of Nomads

I have Belgian roots but the world has been my home for the past 7 years. I'm an artist at heart and often get lost in my thoughts. I like to create some-thing out of no-thing and once I feel inspired, I'm unstoppable. I love telling stories and taking photos, showing the beauty and extraordinary of the world around me. Oh, and I love making the impossible elegantly probable. Once you realize that you're a creator and the world is your playfield, there's no limit to what can be done!

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MeganCynthiaMagalieJournal of NomadsMike - Travel & Destinations Recent comment authors
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Megan
Megan

Thanks for providing such detailed information. Uzbekistan is on my bucket list, I fell in love with the architecture.
One question I had was in regard to taking in medication. You mentioned antidepressants are strictly forbidden but the attached medications list from Caravanistan doesn’t have any SSRIs or SNRIs listed (as far as I can tell). Any place I can check this for sure?

Magalie
Magalie

Hi cynthia, thank you somuch for the article on UZBEKITSTAN. I will be entering Tashkent from the oybek border Tajikistan, sometime in September,I have read some daunting posts about crossing the border, Iam a little nervous,any recommendations.

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[…] for a visa if you want to visit Uzbekistan. You can find more info about the application process here. You can stay up to 30 days in the country. Remember that you have to register at least one night […]

Mike - Travel & Destinations

I’ve been wanting to visit Uzbekistan for a while, partly because of the amazing architecture! This was great to read and really interesting. It sounds pretty strict.Thanks for sharing your tips and advice!

Journal of Nomads

Hey Mike! Thank you! 🙂 It sounds strict but once you’ve passed the border, it’s actually really fine. The people are very nice and yes, the architecture is stunning! Any idea yet when you will go?